I know people will race anything with an engine, lawn mowers for example... but a car jack? really?smokin wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 9:51 am I have a pair of these I use in tandem when jacking up onto stands
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarke-CTJ12 ... 3262219045
Washing Tips
Re: Washing Tips
Re: Washing Tips
I have 2 similar jacks myself and I tend to lift the rear of the car both sides together then put the stands u set but leave the jacks in place for safety.
The stainless exhaust unfortunately is just very hard work and very time consuming. I could get it gleaming but after hrs of rubbing !! It’s why on my Nomad I got the laser cut black protection plate so I didn’t have to !!
The stainless exhaust unfortunately is just very hard work and very time consuming. I could get it gleaming but after hrs of rubbing !! It’s why on my Nomad I got the laser cut black protection plate so I didn’t have to !!
Re: Washing Tips
Washing is one thing - what about drying? I use a 2800Watt 'pet dryer' (approx £52 on Ebay) for my bike and it's brilliant. Very powerful, if a little noisy. Also use it on my Atom for blowing away any water from around the nooks and crannies/rod ends etc. (don't blow it on the radiator fan blades, or air intake)..
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Re: Washing Tips
Noel
Harken McLube SailKote can be sourced directly from Harken UK or, alternatively should you live near the sea, is stocked by quite a few Chandlers (check stock level before setting out to buy it!)
It is designed to lubricate in mast/in boom reefing and also lubricates running blocks and runners on sea going sailing and power craft in the much harsher marine environment - It is silicone based and clings on very well - I spray all the suspension & frame (NOT the rod ends) regularly and it should help prevent salt damage/rusting when to components when driving on wet winter roads (see example of salt damage driveshafts etc in a recent thread)
You can buy it from here : https://www.sailboats.co.uk/mclube-sail ... -lubricant
Harken McLube SailKote can be sourced directly from Harken UK or, alternatively should you live near the sea, is stocked by quite a few Chandlers (check stock level before setting out to buy it!)
It is designed to lubricate in mast/in boom reefing and also lubricates running blocks and runners on sea going sailing and power craft in the much harsher marine environment - It is silicone based and clings on very well - I spray all the suspension & frame (NOT the rod ends) regularly and it should help prevent salt damage/rusting when to components when driving on wet winter roads (see example of salt damage driveshafts etc in a recent thread)
You can buy it from here : https://www.sailboats.co.uk/mclube-sail ... -lubricant
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Re: Washing Tips
il bang a picture on here when iv done it, guessing its going to be a tedious process.Trigger wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 9:58 am I have 2 similar jacks myself and I tend to lift the rear of the car both sides together then put the stands u set but leave the jacks in place for safety.
The stainless exhaust unfortunately is just very hard work and very time consuming. I could get it gleaming but after hrs of rubbing !! It’s why on my Nomad I got the laser cut black protection plate so I didn’t have to !!
what an idea, iv seen those on car detailing sites for like 200+ never thought to buy a pet dryer, you think it will be of similar power to push the water out?mapes wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 11:57 am Washing is one thing - what about drying? I use a 2800Watt 'pet dryer' (approx £52 on Ebay) for my bike and it's brilliant. Very powerful, if a little noisy. Also use it on my Atom for blowing away any water from around the nooks and crannies/rod ends etc. (don't blow it on the radiator fan blades, or air intake)..
cheers [mention]autobackup[/mention] il get some ordered, after owning a TVR and the chassis prone to corroding from the salt etc im forever cautious.
Re: Washing Tips
I believe this is what the missenden flyer recommends for his bike drying. I'd guess the price point will decide how much blow it has and how good it is at warming.Noel wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 1:03 pm what an idea, iv seen those on car detailing sites for like 200+ never thought to buy a pet dryer, you think it will be of similar power to push the water out?
cheers @autobackup il get some ordered, after owning a TVR and the chassis prone to corroding from the salt etc im forever cautious.
Re: Washing Tips
Auto
You say don't spray the rod ends but about 10 years ago that's exactly what was recommended on the old site. I used Team McLube dry lubricant to lube the rod ends. I did it with my old car with seemingly no adverse effects and only a couple of rod end replacements in ten years.
It's a lubricant, why keep it away from the rod ends?
Alan
You say don't spray the rod ends but about 10 years ago that's exactly what was recommended on the old site. I used Team McLube dry lubricant to lube the rod ends. I did it with my old car with seemingly no adverse effects and only a couple of rod end replacements in ten years.
It's a lubricant, why keep it away from the rod ends?
Alan
Re: Washing Tips
It was indeed the Missenden Flyer video that put me on to this, but I wouldn't pay the amazon price of £144 when you can get basically the same thing for almost a third of the price off Ebay ( I did)phil4 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 1:09 pmI believe this is what the missenden flyer recommends for his bike drying. I'd guess the price point will decide how much blow it has and how good it is at warming.Noel wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 1:03 pm what an idea, iv seen those on car detailing sites for like 200+ never thought to buy a pet dryer, you think it will be of similar power to push the water out?
cheers @autobackup il get some ordered, after owning a TVR and the chassis prone to corroding from the salt etc im forever cautious.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dog-Cat-Pet- ... rk:19:pf:0
Re: Washing Tips
It was indeed the Missenden Flyer video that put me on to this, but I wouldn't pay the amazon price of £144 when you can get basically the same thing for almost a third of the price off Ebay ( I did)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dog-Cat-Pet- ... rk:19:pf:0
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dog-Cat-Pet- ... rk:19:pf:0
phil4 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 1:09 pmI believe this is what the missenden flyer recommends for his bike drying. I'd guess the price point will decide how much blow it has and how good it is at warming.Noel wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 1:03 pm what an idea, iv seen those on car detailing sites for like 200+ never thought to buy a pet dryer, you think it will be of similar power to push the water out?
cheers @autobackup il get some ordered, after owning a TVR and the chassis prone to corroding from the salt etc im forever cautious.
Re: Washing Tips
Sorry, please don't feel I'm arguing with you. Go for whatever price point, device, supplier you fancy. I've never tried anything, just passing on someone else's view in case it's helpful.mapes wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 5:54 pmIt was indeed the Missenden Flyer video that put me on to this, but I wouldn't pay the amazon price of £144 when you can get basically the same thing for almost a third of the price off Ebay ( I did)phil4 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 1:09 pmI believe this is what the missenden flyer recommends for his bike drying. I'd guess the price point will decide how much blow it has and how good it is at warming.Noel wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 1:03 pm what an idea, iv seen those on car detailing sites for like 200+ never thought to buy a pet dryer, you think it will be of similar power to push the water out?
cheers @autobackup il get some ordered, after owning a TVR and the chassis prone to corroding from the salt etc im forever cautious.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dog-Cat-Pet- ... rk:19:pf:0
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Re: Washing Tips
AlanPWD40 can be applied everywhere if you so choose too - spray it on the chassis, wishbones etc et - of course avoid the brakes and air intake. You should also NOT lubricate the Rod Ends in any way - lubricating them will increase wear on them. To clean these simply just wipe over them to remove any dirt / debris. Engine bay is good for WD40 too - drives out any moisture near electrics and will help prevent furring in the future. It also make the car very easy yo clean! (But don't put it on the body panels or tactile control surfaces!)
I have always understood that rod ends were pre-lubricated and that spraying them can be counter productive which was confirmed by Henry in a previous post (see quote from his post above - my emboldening) in this thread!
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Re: Washing Tips
Thanks
Apparently lubricating the rod ends 'increases wear'. Sounds like 'engine oil increases wear' to me. I also don't understand how you prelubricate a rod end that isn't sealed. I've just looked up lubricate in a dictionary in case I've totally lost the plot. I'm clearly missing something here, I'm on my way down to the factory to collect my car, I think I'll ask 'Honest Steve'.
A
Apparently lubricating the rod ends 'increases wear'. Sounds like 'engine oil increases wear' to me. I also don't understand how you prelubricate a rod end that isn't sealed. I've just looked up lubricate in a dictionary in case I've totally lost the plot. I'm clearly missing something here, I'm on my way down to the factory to collect my car, I think I'll ask 'Honest Steve'.
A
Re: Washing Tips
Lubrication can attract dirt - and drag it into the liner, therefore increasing wear.
engine oil prevents wear, as for all intents and purposes and engine is a sealed system. The only dirt that can really get in is created by the internals of the engine itself....
engine oil prevents wear, as for all intents and purposes and engine is a sealed system. The only dirt that can really get in is created by the internals of the engine itself....
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Re: Washing Tips
I think it depends on whether the rod ends are lined with a PTFE component or pure metal.
If it's greased/oiled it will just attract dirt which will then act as an abrasive and increase wear and therefore increase friction.
Once the rod end starts to rattle due to the play that has developed, bigger grit particles get in and it's downhill from there.
Boots could be fitted but would look ugly.
The answer is to change them as soon as they show any wear - something that Ariel are always keen to do ! ( if necessary )
If it's greased/oiled it will just attract dirt which will then act as an abrasive and increase wear and therefore increase friction.
Once the rod end starts to rattle due to the play that has developed, bigger grit particles get in and it's downhill from there.
Boots could be fitted but would look ugly.
The answer is to change them as soon as they show any wear - something that Ariel are always keen to do ! ( if necessary )
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Re: Washing Tips
A quick question on cleaning.
You obviously can’t just wash the bodywork with a micro fibre cloth and rinse it off. How do you get the dust etc. off if the bodywork so that you can wipe the bodywork down without scratching the bodywork?
I’ve got some baby wipes for the tubes and will wash and rinse the wheels, suspension etc.
Thanks
Andrew
You obviously can’t just wash the bodywork with a micro fibre cloth and rinse it off. How do you get the dust etc. off if the bodywork so that you can wipe the bodywork down without scratching the bodywork?
I’ve got some baby wipes for the tubes and will wash and rinse the wheels, suspension etc.
Thanks
Andrew
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