Washing Tips

[Noel]

Hi

so after having my atom for 3 weeks and been out in it every weekend it officially needs a clean. does anyone have any advice? im used to using the snow foam with my jet wash on my cars and then 2 buckets to wash it but with everything exposed especially the wires can i do this? or is they a preferred method for cleaning an atom? am i ok to jet wash the underside? so many questions haha

also my wheel arches have marks on them, will i be ok to just get the polishing machine on these with a cutting pad to get the marks out?

is there a preferred method for jacking the car up too if i out it on axel stands for cleaning or winter storage?

thanks in advance noel

[phil4]

Lots of questions... a few ideas:

Foam/Jet/Powerwasher... avoid the dash display, and the ECU (on the back of the rear bulkhead the opposite side to the filler.

Personally I'd do that lightly, to get most of the grime of the engine, suspension, tub... but the frame I do with wipes.

Polishing pads I'm not sure, the mudguards are a gel coat top... not sure how that responds to polishing.

Jacking, there are some specific points, I'm likely no doing it right, but do it at the rear wishbone/frame joint and similar on the rear (but this time the front wishbone joint).

[Noel]

Lots of questions... a few ideas:

Foam/Jet/Powerwasher... avoid the dash display, and the ECU (on the back of the rear bulkhead the opposite side to the filler.

Personally I'd do that lightly, to get most of the grime of the engine, suspension, tub... but the frame I do with wipes.

Polishing pads I'm not sure, the mudguards are a gel coat top... not sure how that responds to polishing.

Jacking, there are some specific points, I'm likely no doing it right, but do it at the rear wishbone/frame joint and similar on the rear (but this time the front wishbone joint).

what wipes are you using? mines filthy now, i was out in it last night and the ground was wet and full of leaves so it needs a good wipe down now. you using the wipes for anything else or just the frame?

[phil4]

what wipes are you using? ... you using the wipes for anything else or just the frame?

Huggies Pure Baby Wipes

My kid was 3 when I bought the Atom, so had plenty around. On the frame I just use these, changing wipe/side very frequently (don't want to drag dirt across the paint).

[HenryJS]

Noel,

Every time our demo car gets a days use (probably between 3-6 hours driving) we clean it.

Its really, really easy to do and keeps the car looking spotless throughout its (rather tough) life here at Ariel.

It sounds extremely laborious - but when you have finished driving - put a tiny amount of car shampoo in a bucket, nice hot water, chamois leather (or sponge that doesn't tear really easily) and just wipe the car off. It wont take long, and the dirt comes off really, really easy when its fresh. the car doesnt really need 'products' on it. Although a ceramic wheel coating thing (im sure someone here has a recommendation) is a great investment.

When youve finished cleaning - drive it LITERALLY up the road to dry the brakes off, then away in the garage. Done.

At this time of year, salt and water can be a death mix for the look of your engine. Every time you go out, wash the engine off with a hose. It will stop it form going 'furry' - as its an aluminium unit.

[IanG]

And if you want to protect the aluminium
Give it a quick spray with ACF-50

[John Scherrer]

.. not particular popular with the factory though ?

[Noel]

Noel,

Every time our demo car gets a days use (probably between 3-6 hours driving) we clean it.

Its really, really easy to do and keeps the car looking spotless throughout its (rather tough) life here at Ariel.

It sounds extremely laborious - but when you have finished driving - put a tiny amount of car shampoo in a bucket, nice hot water, chamois leather (or sponge that doesn't tear really easily) and just wipe the car off. It wont take long, and the dirt comes off really, really easy when its fresh. the car doesnt really need 'products' on it. Although a ceramic wheel coating thing (im sure someone here has a recommendation) is a great investment.

When youve finished cleaning - drive it LITERALLY up the road to dry the brakes off, then away in the garage. Done.

At this time of year, salt and water can be a death mix for the look of your engine. Every time you go out, wash the engine off with a hose. It will stop it form going 'furry' - as its an aluminium unit.

thanks for that henry, its appreciated, when washing it after a run at this time of year, is there anywhere on the chassis i must try and wash with the chamois or sponge to get the salt off? last thing i want is for the chassis to rot or anything. plus your method is less labour intensive than getting all the jet wash etc.

il look into some ceramic wheel stuff too then. any pictures on where to jack the car up and put the axel stands etc? just so i dont do it wrong, want to take the wheels off and give everything a wash/wipe down.

[HenryJS]

is there anywhere on the chassis i must try and wash with the chamois or sponge to get the salt off?

Nowhere to pay specific attention to really, just make sure you give the whole thing a really good wipe off. For double reassurance, just rinse it off with the hose after wards

To clean up the bulkheads - use Autosol and 16 hours of your life. Protecting them is difficult - I personally would WIPE WD40 on them, not spray it.
As per Toms post - oil dripping everywhere looks messy...

WD40 can be applied everywhere if you so choose too - spray it on the chassis, wishbones etc et - of course avoid the brakes and air intake. You should also NOT lubricate the Rod Ends in any way - lubricating them will increase wear on them. To clean these simply just wipe over them to remove any dirt / debris. Engine bay is good for WD40 too - drives out any moisture near electrics and will help prevent furring in the future. It also make the car very easy yo clean! (But don't put it on the body panels or tactile control surfaces!)

Two pics to let you know where to jack the car up:

[autobackup]

WD40 is banned for use on commercial aircraft - using it is a disciplinary offence - for any purpose whatsoever as it primarily intended to be a penetrating oil (rusty bolts etc) as it leaves an abrasive residue when it dries that is not too good for aluminium.

I would suggest that you might consider using Harken McLube Sailkote which is designed for use in a marine environment and, while considerably more expensive than WD40, will do a much better job!!

https://www.harken.com/productcategory.aspx?taxid=372

[Noel]

awesome [mention]HenryJS[/mention] thanks for that, that is very useful for some one like me , il get myself some WD40 (or Harken McLube Sailkote) this weekend and give bits a quick spray where needed. Stupid question to probably everyone in here, but for a novice like me, the rod ends are the ends that screw on near each wheel with the bearing on the end?

i got some autosol the other day for the exhaust as its marked badly, had 2 goes at it and still didnt sort it, just bought some buffing pads for the polisher to have another go at it.

those pictures help me a lot, once i have it jacked up am i safe to put the axel stands on any part of the chassis around where i jacked it up?

[mention]autobackup[/mention] would the Harken McLube Sailkote stuff make that much difference on the atom compared to WD40? apart from the residue it leaves? guessing its an online job to get hold of it too.

[smokin]

Autosol bluing remover is recommended by some if that's your problem. Yes, you have correctly identified the rodends.

[Noel]

Autosol bluing remover is recommended by some if that's your problem. Yes, you have correctly identified the rodends.

awesome , thanks, just ordered some from ebay

[John Scherrer]

I'm with Smokin - Autosol Blue is good but make sure you wear nitrile gloves as caustic - It's quicker to use a very fine wire wool and lightly rub the polish, then finish off with a cloth to get a chrome shine. You can't rush this ..

With the jack, it's tricky to find one that has a low reach when fully down. Also use a pad to protect the chassis and always secure the car with axle stands (with pads) under the chassis once raised.

Once raised, you'll find that it's possible to get 3 wheels off the ground and the whole car can rock dangerously between the jack point and the wheel(s) left on the ground. Take care ..

[smokin]

With the jack, it's tricky to find one that has a low reach when fully down. Also use a pad to protect the chassis and always secure the car with axle stands (with pads) under the chassis once raised.
Once raised, you'll find that it's possible to get 3 wheels off the ground and the whole car can rock dangerously between the jack point and the wheel(s) left on the ground. Take care ..

I have a pair of these I use in tandem when jacking up onto stands
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarke-CTJ12 ... 3262219045