Chat:Silver's ecotec atom 2 upgrades

[silver]

ok IAT2 updates

OK some updates is I did test the IAT2's without getting the car into any boost but driving it like I had previously, such as 60 mph- 80mph in 5th gear, today it was considerably cooler than my previous day for testing so the numbers aren't going to prove anything but there is still intresting stuff to post.

the most interesting change I could see versus before is my IAT1 no longer went up when the car came to a stop, it remained stable.  With the factory air intake sitting above the hot engine and the factory bass-ackwards pump when coming to a stop both my IAT1 and IAT2's would shoot up considerably, upon acceleration my IAT1's would go back down but my IAT2's would not, they would stay HOT like 165 degrees hot when IAT1 was at 100.

So today, in the morning my IAT1 stayed between 58 and 60 all the way to the car show and my IAT2 stayed around 85 - 90 and crested at 100 when I came to a stop however, it went right back down to 85-90 as soon as I left the stop light.

On the way home the IAT1 was at 70 and the IAT2's stayed around 100-102 most of the way home.  At stop lights IAT2 would go up to 110-115 but quickly drop back down to 100-102 upon normal acceleration.  Coming into my neighborhood and having the rev's at or below 2000 rpm for the last 3 blocks or so the IAT2's went up to 120 and finallly hit 130 as I let it idle in my garage, however, the interesting thing is my IAT1 stayed at 70.


Recap of 3 differences:

1: In my prior testing would show my IAT1 shoot up to over 120 degrees (90 ambient) when the car was at a stop and in my garage running at idle.    This time my IAT1 did not go up AT ALL from sitting in my garage at an idle and stayed at ambient 70 IAT1 70 ambient.

2:  In both testing my IAT2's shoot up as soon as you let off the gas, I assume b/c you are not moving enough air through the supercharger so it heats up, but before the IAT2's would stay hot even after you get back up to speed and cruise, now they cool right back down immediately to where they were prior to the car coming to a stop.

3:  I'm hoping that since the air intake is no longer heating up the air because of sitting on top of the engine that it will keep both IAT1 and IAT2 at lower temps, which it seems to have proven today b/c it would not climb at idle like it did before.

[Lane]

[quote="silver"]
I don't have the flow rates, but if you search the flow rate of the stock cobra / lightening pump that's what this is.
[/quote]

Thanks for the link, Silver.  The vendor indicates that this replacement pump is 317 gallons/hr.

I've taken a close look at the pump in my car (as close as I can without removal) but don't see any markings indicating brand/model.  Anyone know what it is, and what the flow rate is?

[silver]

WOW I'm surprised I just went and grabbed it and took a look, it's a johnson cm30 pump, Luckily I can still read the label which clearly indicates 22.5 l / min which the interweb converts to 5.94 GPM which would be  356 GPH

I dunno.  the cobra one is about 150% larger and pushes the coolant out my bleed line whereas the johnson pump couldn't do it so perhaps the flow rating doesn't really tell the story of how hard it can push just how much it can push.

Funny story is the BENZ guys are talking on their forums about doing the opposite swap, from the bosch to the johnson, but I found this comment that I copied / pasted below


"This pump is Bosch part number 0 392 022 002 and is used in many of the supercharged Mustang Cobras and supercharged Mercedes.

This is an OEM pump. It ships with no documentation. Please check below for pump specifications from Bosch; these are the most detailed specifications available: The no bs flow rating on this pump is around 317 GPM. I data log all my mods and of course pumps I have run. This pump and my aux heat exchanger can handle all the power I am putting to the ground .. IAT recovery is around 6 -8 seconds.


I posted pictures in the past comparing the cm30 to the bosch and head pressure specs. Flow test , only show un-restricted flow but pushing water through a cooling system is a whole different ball game.."

[DarthChicken]

They say to take the bolt out because its the highest point and most likely to scratch your frame.

[silver]

ok that's what was suspected but thanks for confirming, my frame will be taped and taped to help ensure no scratching

[Speedytec]

The harrop will foul the original TMAP sensor, but with the bolt removed it just fits tight under the SC. Therefore the removal of the bolt.

You can also alter the sensor lip a bit so it can be rotated out of the way and still be bolted down onto the mani.
(Look around on the cobalt forum for pics of this slight mod)

Edit, see > http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=159997
Or are you talking about the top (SCIP) sensor bolt? That might be a very close fit to the Atom frame...

[s996]

great job

keep us posted!

[Gage]

Fingers crossed. 

[silver]

ok more updates

took a 20 minute drive and drove it through all 5 gears at all rpms..no problems!!!

few things to note.

IAT2's stayed below 130 for 90% of the trip...I tried pushing it as hard as I could (on the highway) and was able to get a few long pulls in 4th gear with the pedal to the floor, got the IAT2's up to 150 but they quickly went back to 125, which never would have happened before.

Before changes, in 3rd or 4th gear cruising on the highway it would sit at 150 and go up to 170 degrees on the highway with low acceleration, and no matter what I did it wouldn't get any lower.  IAT1's would go as high as 122 b/c the air intake is located above the engine so it just heats it up.

now, sits at 120 in 3rd or 4th gear cruising...on 3rd gear hard long pull it still didn't go over 130, 4th gear pull it went to 140, then another 4th gear pull it went to 150
no matter what my IAT2's never went above 80, really the IAT1 never moved by more than 4 degrees.


so how's the power....it's well hard to say.....I did spin the tires in 3rd gear I was going 70mph and floored it and they spun.....that's never happened before, but still I don't know if that's the tires, road or power.

I will dyno this week on the same dyno where I've been before and where I did 238 at the best with the eaton.....I really don't care if I get 280 or 300 I'm not really going for more power but the IAT2 reduction is pretty obvious.

[silver]

p0103 and p0520 did come up, i'm wondering if these are anomaly or what...lil help please

looking them up it looks like maf and some oil sensor switch

[DarthChicken]

P0103 - you overflowed your MAF.  Which means bigger intake, which means tune from scratch. 

Like you said, the one you had made up was pretty close to stock size, so this doesn't surprise me.

P0520 - oil pressure switch going south.  You sure its plugged in all the way? 

[silver]

where's the oil pressure switch and I'll check.

as for the maf...I think it happened when I did my first 3rd gear pull b/c I bounced off the limiter, I mean if norm's not hitting the limit and he's doing a lot more boost than me....I should be fine...but hell If I need to I'll get a new 3.5 inch maf tube made and start over....at least it's all included in the price of the tune

[silver]

I found this, Darth what do you think, is this what I should check for the oil pressure switch

http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showt ... uge-on-LSJ

[DarthChicken]

That looks to be to install a guage 

[silver]

well it's the directions on where the factory guage is and how to remove it......but my question is are there any other guages that could be causing the fault code.

I think I'll clear the codes and run it again and see if they return, then I'll know if it's a real issue or caused by an anomaly like bouncing off the rev limiter.