Brake Update.

[bolus]

Mav, no offence, It is cool that you want to do your own pad replacement, but if you dont know how the spreader works you might want to have the dealership do it for you. 

[maverick1]

[quote="bolus"]
Mav, no offence, It is cool that you want to do your own pad replacement, but if you dont know how the spreader works you might want to have the dealership do it for you. 
[/quote]
No offense taken, but with the prices Porsche charges I think I'd rather take the time to learn how to do these things myself. I love learning new things, trying new foods etc.
I was able to fix everything that got fried when my exhaust blew up, I think I can handle changing brake pads and rotors.
cheers.

[bolus]

Here is a write up on Mini cooper brake pad replacement.  do a search and see if you can find the same thing for your car.  If you notice on this writeup, the mini requires a tool that spins the piston as it is pushed in which is a pain in the ass if you dont have the tool (believe me).  Your car may have some tricky step that is very hard lesson to learn when you have the car up on blocks and then realize you need to go buy another tool

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/fo ... nners.html

[nickpoore]

You mean using channel-locks to squeeze the old pads back into the calipers before removing them was wrong?

[bolus]

All you guys are wusses because I can squeeze the pistons back in with my bare hands

[Driver]

Channel Locks, c-clamps etc,.... people use a variety of tools. All of them are fine as long as you don't mess anything up by being too enthusiastic. The clamp Maverick has is used once you get the caliper off the rotor. It slides into the caliper and once you start cranking it open is very straightforward. Frankly a c-clamp is better assuming the brake line is not in the way and the caliper design allows it. Looking for a write up is a good way to go as well.

Maverick if you want some help I can make myself available by phone during your job. I've done hundreds of brake jobs, and other than that screw in piston kicking my butt the first time I ran across it and the addition of abs sensors the process hasn't changed much since I was in auto shop in high school. It's not that big a deal. After you've done the first wheel you'll be kicking yourself that you've paid other people $100+ just to do a 20 minute pad slap on your car. Do a front wheel first. There's no e-brake setup on that corner and so it'll go easier popping your brake cherry. Last time I went to the Porsche dealer to pick up pads for my 996 GT2 BiTurbo-based setup I think it was right at $105 for the pads. X2 if you do the rears as well.

[maverick1]

Thanks for the offer Ken but I found a step by step instruction article on the web.
Should be a piece of cake.
http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/pr ... ange_pads/
bolus, fortunately the Boxster piston does not need to be twisted to go back into the caliper.
That's the first I've heard of that with your Mini.
cheers

[Lane]

I had a friend that didn't believe me when I told him how easy it was to change pads on the Wilwoods and how quick it could be done.  I shot this video clip to illustrate.   

Yes, I know my jack & lateral lower A-Arm support is low-tech, but I'm not gonna cry about it when I leave it at the track.

[maverick1]

[quote="Lane"]
I had a friend that didn't believe me when I told him how easy it was to change pads on the Wilwoods and how quick it could be done.  I shot this video clip to illustrate.   

Yes, I know my jack & lateral lower A-Arm support is low-tech, but I'm not gonna cry about it when I leave it at the track.
[/quote]
Lane, I noticed in your video that you did not have to push the pistons back into the caliper when you changed out the pads. I guess they were not worn that much.
cheers

[bolus]

[quote="Lane"]
I had a friend that didn't believe me when I told him how easy it was to change pads on the Wilwoods and how quick it could be done.  I shot this video clip to illustrate.   

Yes, I know my jack & lateral lower A-Arm support is low-tech, but I'm not gonna cry about it when I leave it at the track.
[/quote]

Nice,  the alcons are the same way.  I was sure cursing BMW when changing the pads on my Mini.  I kept thinking why the Hell does it have to be this complicated when it clearly can be done in a much more obvious and easy way

[Lane]

[quote="maverick1"]
Lane, I noticed in your video that you did not have to push the pistons back into the caliper when you changed out the pads. I guess they were not worn that much.
[/quote]

This particular change was to switch from track back to street pads - both with similar thickness.  If there is ever a thickness differential, I can usually create enough room by pressing on the part of the backing plate sticking through the caliper with my fingers (prior to pulling the pad out) to force the pistons in a bit.  Then the pad can be pulled, and the new one slides right in.  Usually this requires very little pressure or force to do as the pistons move quite easily.

[Driver]

[quote="maverick1"]
Thanks for the offer Ken but I found a step by step instruction article on the web.
Should be a piece of cake.
http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/pr ... ange_pads/[/quote]

That's them. Looks very close to the ones I have, difference other than color is likely it's the new monoblok design they went with a few years ago. Mine are a 2 piece caliper. Still Brembo though. When prying/inserting the new pads watch out that you don't pinch one of the dust shields (rubber gasket) around each piston. Alcons and Wilwoods don't have them but the Porsche stuff usually does.