GM's fault codes for Brammo Atom

[bolus]

I wouldn't disable the p2101 (except maybe for testing) since that seems to be more of a detector for a mechanical throttle body problem.  The P0068 is something that shows up a lot of higher boosted ecotecs.  Granted I dont like loosing the safety of the limp mode, on my car it triggers with like 20% throttle in second gear.  I cant have that happen every time I go driving.  

Silver, dont drive the car with the water injection nozzle just sitting there.  There is going to be a lot of vacuum pulling in air there which bypasses the filter.  

Right behind the dash, all the connections into the dash can be pretty easily pulled out.  I'd check there first.  Then check under the fuse box.  Then in the harness itself about 6 inches from the back of the dash there are wires connected to together like below.  They are very well secured so I doubt they came apart.  Otherwise all the wires there are very well protected and secure.  I doubt you are going to fine a problem in the harness itself.  

[silver]

ok i'll fix the air intake first before I take it anywhere...one of those rubber stoppers should do the trick..someone else here used one IIRC.

I was planning on checking the wiring thoroughly when my friend get's back in town who is an electrical genius.

[positron]

[quote="bolus"]
I wouldn't disable the p2101 (except maybe for testing) since that seems to be more of a detector for a mechanical throttle body problem.  The P0068 is something that shows up a lot of higher boosted ecotecs.  Granted I dont like loosing the safety of the limp mode, on my car it triggers with like 20% throttle in second gear.  I cant have that happen every time I go driving.  

Silver, dont drive the car with the water injection nozzle just sitting there.  There is going to be a lot of vacuum pulling in air there which bypasses the filter. 

[/quote]

Bolus is your case you needed to adjust the range so that is would be "in parameter" with your Turbolus...

What? the air is TX is not beautiful clean? pfff with that much humidity and rain I'm surprised either one of you would have to spray..

[bolus]

What is the setup you have for the nozzle?  Do you have a bung screwed into the intake and then screw the nozzle into the bung?  I have extra parts from my kit.  If the bung is larger than the hole you have in the intake (hehehe bunghole) you could take these parts and just re-tap.

the bung is on the left which goes into the intake.  the nozzle is on the right.  I have a 0.6mm and 1.0mm nozzles

[bolus]

[quote="Positron"]
Bolus is your case you needed to adjust the range so that is would be "in parameter" with your Turbolus...
[/quote]

I never saw a parameter in hptuners to adjust this.  The colbalt guys just turn it off like I did. 

[silver]

[quote="bolus"]
What is the setup you have for the nozzle?  Do you have a bung screwed into the intake and then screw the nozzle into the bung?  I have extra parts from my kit.  If the bung is larger than the hole you have in the intake (hehehe bunghole) you could take these parts and just re-tap.

the bung is on the left which goes into the intake.  the nozzle is on the right.  I have a 0.6mm and 1.0mm nozzles
[/quote]

mine kinda looks like the one on the right, but at the bottom of my nozzle is a plastic 90degree bend/ holder for the water line....

If your BUNG's inner threading was M10 X 1.0 then It would work perfectly (if you had a tap also) b/c I know my nozzle is M10X1.0.

[bolus]

It is M8 x0.75  sorry.  what kit do you have again?

[silver]

Snow performance....you have given me a good idea so ill call them tomorrow to see if they make something like your bung

[silver]

Obviously my flux capacitor is what broke causing all this mess loll

[silver]

I have come up with what I think is 2 good solutions to the water injection conundrum so lemme know if y'all have suggestions here.

1:  the water pump always initializes upon turning the ignition on and sprays water (whether starting the car or not)  as soon as I realized this I would remove the water hose from the nozzle at any point when I was going to need to turn the ignition on without starting the car...this isn't the best solution because there should not be spray unless upon startup but because the MAF sends a signal to the WI brain, it does this everytime.  My friend came up with an obvious solution which is to put the WI brain on a switch so that it won't turn on at all until I want it to...hopefully this will allow me to turn it on after the initial signal is sent from the MAF

2:  the hole is now too big in my air intake tube for me to rethread the WI nozzle, so using Bolus' Bung Idea my friend also recommended we use a rivnut application whichh would allow for a riveted installation of a threaded receptacle therefore it can't come unthreaded and I don't have to drill a second hole.  to me this sounds like a great idea, any objections out there?

[Driver]

Rivnuts can come loose and the pieces can go down your intake so be careful (stuck throttle blade comes to mind). If the intake there is metal then I'd look at getting a bung welded in thus eliminating the chance of something screwing up your engine.

[silver]

[quote="Driver"]
Rivnuts can come loose and the pieces can go down your intake so be careful (stuck throttle blade comes to mind). If the intake there is metal then I'd look at getting a bung welded in thus eliminating the chance of something screwing up your engine.
[/quote]

thanks for the input.  the hole is in the plastic air intake tube so it's not metal.

the rivnut maybe a dead idea b/c the M10X1.0 is a part they would have to order from the manufacturer and minimum quantities are 2,000...he's calling to double check but the magic 8 ball says outlook not so good.

if that doesn't work..I'll fiberglass the hole shut and start over with a new hole.

[silver]

update, http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=53

they sell this piece where the retainer nut is sandwiched between the nozzle (too big to go through the hole) and the inner bung.

problem solved and the nut can't back off b/c the nozzle is in the way.

whew....and YAY.

[bolus]

that looks perfect.  you figure out the wiring problem yet?

[silver]

nope can't figure it out...yet...

here's my newest theory

while disconnecting the OBDII scanner it caused a glitch in the "security system" which shut the car down and caused the ECU to see the p2101 mismatch.
because the security system has a memory (uhh total guessing that it has a memory) it wouldn't let go of it's grasp on the fuel pump/TB/MAF for 8 hours.

because the MAF wasn't getting signal it didn't send signal to the water injection upon startup(confirmed with snow performance this is an issue on the ecotecs that it sends signal upon startup....not a problem for cobalt owners as much as us b/c I put the ignition switch ON without starting quite often)  so I'll now install a switch on the water injection that will allow me to turn it on separately from the ignition and it will no longer give me the problem of squirting upon ignition being switched to ON