GM's fault codes for Brammo Atom

[bolus]

[quote="Terry Kennedy"]
I'd like to point out that anyone working on an Atom engine should acquire the engine manual
[/quote]

Hey Terry,  does anyone carry this manual in an electronic form?  Online or CD rom or something?  it would be nice for the club to have.  Anyone is welcome to use my set but not exactly easy to mail 20lbs of books around

[quote="silver"]
no chopping to plug the MIL in, that was too simple, both wires are already run from Brammo, I just connected them.
[/quote]

Did the water pump turn on exactly when you were moving the harness?  If so they you have some sort of connection problem there.  No idea what would cause it but it must be there unless you were shaking it so hard the whole car was moving. 

[Terry Kennedy]

[quote="bolus"]
Hey Terry,  does anyone carry this manual in an electronic form?  Online or CD rom or something?  it would be nice for the club to have.  Anyone is welcome to use my set but not exactly easy to mail 20lbs of books around

Did the water pump turn on exactly when you were moving the harness?  If so they you have some sort of connection problem there.  No idea what would cause it but it must be there unless you were shaking it so hard the whole car was moving.   [/quote]

Yes, there is a CD/DVD version. The part number is V200803DVDRETAI. It costs $400. When I contacted Helm about an earlier version back in 2006, they said "Yes I will have to say it is a collection on paper manuals In PDF .". I don't know if that is correct or if the PDF files have some sort of document security that prevents them from being used on more than one system.

Check the harness up around the fuse box as well. What seems to be a loose wire behind the dash may actually be a loose wire in the fuse box, since they are so close by. You don't need most of the dash to run the engine - you can disconnect the central display. Obviously, you still need the ignition switch and starter button.

[silver]

[quote="bolus"]

Did the water pump turn on exactly when you were moving the harness?  If so they you have some sort of connection problem there.  No idea what would cause it but it must be there unless you were shaking it so hard the whole car was moving.   

[/quote]

honestly I can't remember, there are 2 scenarios that it could have happened but I wasn't expecting it to turn on so here are the 3 options
1:  after moving (like wiggling) wires behind the guages, I unplugged the fuses back there that are my installed fuses for previously mentioned accessories unaffected by these events but I decided to unplug them and plug them back in anways....so it either happened as I plugged the fuses back in...or
2:  it happened after I plugged the fuses back in and then turned the ignition back on...
problem is that I can't remember if it sprayed water as I plugged fuses back in or I randomly decided to cycle the ignition switch off/on.

[silver]

[quote="Terry Kennedy"]
Check the harness up around the fuse box as well. What seems to be a loose wire behind the dash may actually be a loose wire in the fuse box, since they are so close by. You don't need most of the dash to run the engine - you can disconnect the central display. Obviously, you still need the ignition switch and starter button.
[/quote]

this sounds like a good possibility that maybe a wire under the factory fuse box at the front is loose and therefore causes the intermittent p2101 code on our cars.

My car does this
Eddie Hill's car does this
I'm pretty sure Bolus's car did this until Darth made it impossible
and same for Darth's car

how many others have the p2101 intermittent problem where your car goes into limp mode for no reason?

[bolus]

My limp mode was a p0068 or something like that (too much boooooost), I never had the throttle position code limp mode I dont think. 

[silver]

I got my info about your car from darth year let me know what he did to fix it too...but he and I could be talking about the same fix for 2 different codes I don't know...hell have to comment on that

[bolus]

The ECU fix was for the p0068 code which is a MAF / throttle position code which causes limp mode.  the fix was setting the code so it would only trigger after 8000 rpm (basically never). 

[silver]

Ok so same fix for 2 codes....not really killing the code but preventing limp mode. Now I have a new problem...the threads for my water injection nozzle have worn out I guess and it won't screw in anymore....poop

the water nozzle is threaded....can I just get 2 nuts and "bolt" it down from the inside of the intake tube.....or is that the dumbest idea ever...

seems like if I use 2 nuts(back to back) then hey won't back off and they will still be below the nozzle tip so it won't interefere and they won't get sucked into the throttle body.

[positron]

Sorry for being late to the game fellows.. working late on ORVR compliance...

Was trying to speed read, so help me fill in the blanks..

something loose behind dash - same circuit as spray.. where did you (they) tie spray into? Either loose wire or bad (portion) of ignition switch. Spray should have separate circuit but in this case it's helping identifying this issue. Cold beer says not factory or part issue, but after installation issue causing collateral issues.


TB is not going to expected position IFRC 8%, if not receiving juice so mismatch with cross check so your getting the "oh shiate" something is wrong - all stop command.

Pull off dash cover for more in depth look see, sounds to be behind dash break to TB circuit caused by lack of flow of electrons..

don't remember if you said if fuel pump was affected at same time..


ingestion of foreign metal objects ... not advisable = VERY bad..

[silver]

at this point put the back half of the car together...except I'm temporarily zip tieing the water injection nozzle back in the air intake tube because "OF COURSE" the hold is now too big and the nozzle just goes in and out (i've removed it probably 5 times total for various reasons and the threads must have worn out)

the front half is still apart, I have moved all the wiring around (now since the car does start and is running with no codes present) and can't recreate the failure, I just don't know.

I think the best solution (besides spending hours chasing down an electrical gremlin) is to have my limp mode removed from the ECU that way at least if this gremlin comes back the car will still run and won't leave me stranded like it would have today.

I'm tired, this has been a bad day....my cell phone also broke and fixed itself today too ...pretty much along the exact same timeline as the car...so I feel like I've been in the twilight zone all day

ps I really wanted to shoot my car b/c the entire back end just would not go back together (and i've done this like 10 times) none of the screws would go in straight and none of the god dmaned 1/4 turn fasteners would go back in to hold the friggen tea tray in.

quitting for today.

[positron]

Sounds like in this case the limp mode was valid and correct, there was a valid mismatch in expected throttle position. Which would be helpful if you were asking for off and it was bound at 100%. Never cool in a school zone. Never a good idea to disable the safety equipment that will save your arse someday. The only time(s) I've had it happen to me was during a 3-4 speedy shift passing a Porch.. since I've not been hunting Porches, I've not had this issue.. Short story if you quick shift (close throttle quickly at full boost) the MAF signal goes off the scale and it calls for the all stop.. stupid Porch designed hidden handicap...

Your spray hole should be plugged if not it's sucking dirty air and depending on position unmeterred etc. Your good at glass/frosting work now.. patch it and drill/tap a new one some degrees from patch work. It'll make bolus cringe but where are you going to buy a new one?

[silver]

[quote="Positron"]
Sounds like in this case the limp mode was valid and correct, there was a valid mismatch in expected throttle position. Which would be helpful if you were asking for off and it was bound at 100%. Never cool in a school zone. Never a good idea to disable the safety equipment that will save your arse someday. The only time(s) I've had it happen to me was during a 3-4 speedy shift passing a Porch.. since I've not been hunting Porches, I've not had this issue.. Short story if you quick shift (close throttle quickly at full boost) the MAF signal goes off the scale and it calls for the all stop.. stupid Porch designed hidden handicap...

Your spray hole should be plugged if not it's sucking dirty air and depending on position unmeterred etc. Your good at glass/frosting work now.. patch it and drill/tap a new one some degrees from patch work. It'll make bolus cringe but where are you going to buy a new one?
[/quote]

for what it's worth, my car has only gone into limp mode and p2101 code upon startup or at idle, never under acceleration.

for what it's worth I will patch the hole and redrill and tap a new one eventually....the hole is plugged with the nozzle for now, the threads just don't hold it in so there obviously is some room around the nozzle but minimal

[positron]

I want to say the TB goes from rest (0) to 8% (the click) so either it's sticking or sometimes not going to start position (valid mismatch). If it gets predictable TB are cheap and having a spare may not be a bad thing..

I've got one idea that Bruce will delete if we discuss here..

[silver]

yes Bolus posted a link to the TB for $75 from GMpartsdirect.

I was able to play with the TB on the car with the intake tube out of the way and could move it both ways and it returned back to rest via the springs, which is what's recommended is supposed to happen...but since it's intermittent this doesn't prove anything

[positron]

There is also a TB relearn procedure that doesn't hurt to perform around here somewhere ... Alec?