Exhaust Installation.

[Terry Kennedy]

[quote="dingo"]
EBeck's new header was supplied with SS Button head hex machine bolts.  We would recommend not using them. 

I[snip]

So Eric got Grade 8 coated hex head bolts and it was these that we used to fasten the header to the exhaust ports after using a tappoing tool carefully into each and every hole. [/quote]

I'm still interested in knowing why nobody is using the studs that are already there...

[dingo]

We could not maneuvre the flange of the header over the studs.
There isn't sufficient space between engine block and chassis to approach the exhaust ports at anything like square en face
to fit over the studs.  Ergo, studs have to go. 
That way, you can get the header in the right location, align the header flange to the corresponding holes and pop in bolts, finger tighten a few turns, then get down to fastening them, once all are well started.

[ebeck]

And don't forget (like I did) to re-install the old Y shaped exhaust pipe bracket bolts (located close to the axle).  They were/are used for more than just holding up that bracket.  They secretly double as oil pan bolts.  So, they are kind of important. 

On my first big out with the Atom's new Hytech exhaust, I noticed the small leak.

[ebeck]

Here is a picture of my mounting brackets.  Notice I moved the closer one towards the engine to get the exhaust pipe away from the frame of the car.  There is a lot of stress on that bolt.  Hopefully, that doesn't cause any problems down the road.

[silver]

[quote="Terry Kennedy"]
[quote="dingo"]
EBeck's new header was supplied with SS Button head hex machine bolts.  We would recommend not using them. 

I[snip]

So Eric got Grade 8 coated hex head bolts and it was these that we used to fasten the header to the exhaust ports after using a tappoing tool carefully into each and every hole. [/quote]

I'm still interested in knowing why nobody is using the studs that are already there...
[/quote]

FWIW the fortress designed header fits in on the existing bolts and has no clearance issues with the studs, nor does it even require a wobble socket to install...just a straight extension and 1/2 inch or 13mm deep socket....too bad he's not making anymore.

[silver]

Don't know what its for but do you want to go for a drive today?

[Lane]

[quote="Spanky"]
Does anyone know what this 5th port is for?
[/quote]

If I had to guess, I'd say EGR (exhaust gas recirc) for emissions, which we don't have?

[Speedytec]

Yes,
The 2,2 Ecotec heads have an EGR port there. The 2.0 LSJ head not. 

[bolus]

Darth and I are both using the 9230949 gasket on our turbos with no problems.  That copper one looks nifty though

[Terry Kennedy]

[quote="Spanky"]
I found this one as a possible option:

http://www.ottperformance.com/p328/SCE- ... ba0146b558

I have to still do some more investigating on it.
[/quote]

I have that one here. Manufacturer's page

It won't work - the beads in the copper are outside the edges of the Sector111 header in some places.

[Terry Kennedy]

I finally got around to installing my new muffler today.

I have a couple of things to add to this thread which may help others:

1) You can't install the 4-to-1 piece with the roll bar installed on the car. Once the 4-to-1 piece is installed and locked down, you can re-install the roll bar.

2) At least on my very early Atom, the wiring harness for the lights on the license brake bracket is to the front of the motor mount (actually on the transmission) bracket. There isn't enough room for it and the header. Rather than cutting and re-splicing all the wires, I supported the engine with a jack and removed the 3 bolts holding the bracket to the transmission and the one nut/bolt holding the bracket to the frame. I then moved the wiring harness to the other side of the bracket and re-installed the bracket hardware.

3) I used the socket head cap screws provided. I find that it is easy to prevent cross-threading by starting them by hand - if you can turn them one full turn by hand, they're not cross-threaded. One other trick (useful for all hardware) is to hold the bolt against the manifold and turn it counterclockwise. When you hear/feel the "click", it has moved just past the point where the threads engage. Proceed to turn it clockwise.

4) The 4 pipes on the two pieces didn't line up perfectly on my system. I had done a test fitting off the car and I was able to squeeze the pipes on the header side and slide the other piece on. That didn't work when the header was on the car as there wasn't enough room to reach in there. I used cable ties on the header side, about 1/2" from the end, to pull the 4 pipes together, which let me slide the other piece on. If you do this, don't forget to cut the cable ties off before running the car! I'd suggest that Sector111 put a slight reduction on the tips of the header end (there's not enough room between the 4 pipes to put a flange on the 4-to-1 side) on future builds.

5) My muffler is about 1/2" to 3/4" to the right of the car's centerline, even with the 2 4-pipe pieces as tight as possible. I'll probably fabricate new brackets instead of trying to make the Brammo ones fit.

[Terry Kennedy]

[quote="Terry Kennedy"]
5) My muffler is about 1/2" to 3/4" to the right of the car's centerline, even with the 2 4-pipe pieces as tight as possible. I'll probably fabricate new brackets instead of trying to make the Brammo ones fit.[/quote]

I had Tom at Unique Fabricating make up a set of custom brackets based on the Brammo ones, but with allowances for the odd spacing on the new muffler:

Passenger side:


Driver side:


Back. Note that this picture makes it look like the muffler mounting ears are bent downwards - that isn't the case. There's just a little twist on them to get them to line up with the brackets:

[Radowick]

I am still trying to get my Hytec exhaust to go it properly. A couple of issues keeping me from doing so until the exhaust corrections are made. In the meantime, I notice the Brammo heatshield that in just above the "ramshorn" header has 2 of the 3 mounting hole slots badly cracked about 1/2" long and all the way thru the plate!  Has anyone else noticed this on their Atom? Is it because the head it is mounted to is aluminum and the shield itself is stainless steel? Are these two metals growing at extremely differant rates causing the big cracks?

[Karl]

[quote="Spanky"]
I am still trying to get my Hytec exhaust to go it properly. A couple of issues keeping me from doing so until the exhaust corrections are made. In the meantime, I notice the Brammo heatshield that in just above the "ramshorn" header has 2 of the 3 mounting hole slots badly cracked about 1/2" long and all the way thru the plate!  Has anyone else noticed this on their Atom? Is it because the head it is mounted to is aluminum and the shield itself is stainless steel? Are these two metals growing at extremely differant rates causing the big cracks?
[/quote]

I went through two heat shields in exactly the manner described (cracked mounting hole) due to vibration.  It's not the best design.