Masterlube system should be on it's own switch for maximum engine benifits.

[positron]

Short answer, tank (bottle).

It's water logged. For this system to work it must have approx half full of air to compress to release it's energy when the oil pressure is less than the compressed on top half. Which is why this model must be vertical. With the schrader valve leaking out the air the bottle becomes "full" of oil with no cushion (spring) to compress. Hence instant psi.  You also should have less oil in pan and too much in tank so sometime you should have lost (slow as the schrader leak) some oil on the stick.

Properly discharge and replace schrader valve and follow new installation procedure.

[silver]

yeah Spanky was telling me about this this weekend....a few more items to ask


When I got to it....it had about 10psi in it....I depressed the valve which let some air out....dropping it to 0psi.

Also, spanky said the guy from the company said you should be able to remove that top plug to remove oil with a turkey baster if there is too much in there....but I can't get it to budge and I'm afraid I'm going to break something

have you been able to remove that bolt looking plug on the top?  do i just have to crank on it really hard to get it to break loose?

[positron]

Why can't you get solenoid to open and allow to discharge into engine or at least energize solenoid (not running) open schrader valve and allow to gravity feed into engine.. like to discharge for oil change?

[silver]

I probably could If I knew what you were talking about LOL.

I took spanky's directions above.....

1:  turn the ignition on and wait for the needle to stop dropping, if below 30psi, then add more air....well...it's a 5psi...i was trying to add more air

help

[silver]

soooo should I turn the ignition on....then push in the pin on the schrader valve? or turn the ignition on and try pumping air into the schrader valve  or neither


I was thinking at this point...my tank is full of oil which means I need to open the top and remove oil unitl it is 1/2 way full...then put the top back on and pressurize

[positron]

[quote="silver"]
I was thinking at this point...my tank is full of oil which means I need to open the top and remove oil unitl it is 1/2 way full...then put the top back on and pressurize

[/quote]

yep.. that (or empty and do a new system start. I think I saw that procedure on their website someplace..)

and fix air leak.

[silver]

ok quick update...after talking with Spanky real quick..and reading your post

1: first issue was there was no air in the tank which was proven by the tiny amount of air released when I pused down the schrader valve in the first place.

solution

turn ignition on which opens valve down below...use air pump to  push oil out of bottle...turn ignition off...use air pump again...bottle fills with pressurized air...yay

[positron]

wish I would have thought of that..

[silver]

Ok I'm done.....60psi whether the ignition is on or off......Thank you Spanky Positron and Mav for bringing this up

Most important note from this whole experience...If you have to rev your engine to get the psi UP then your system is out of calibration. This is the hugest item I learned from this.

From reading all the previous notes it makes it sound like you revving the engine to get psi in the tank is normal..and you know what it sounded right because I was thinking more oil pressure at higher rpms...well the guage on the back AIN'T for oil pressure it's for air pressure.....and it's supposed to remain constant.

whether my car is running or not it's at 60psi HAHAHAHA This thing hasn't worked since I got it...until now

Thanks everyone...

p.s. it took 2 rounds of pushing oil out and air in for the guage on the tank to read 40psi...which is all I could get with my particular air pump...then I started the engine..it went right up to 60psi and stayed there...................oh happy day.

I'm so glad I didn't remove that cap on top.

[silver]

Ok so if it is reading 60 now....I need to let some air out to get back down to 30.....gotcha


just let the air out.............so much air in there versus the first time I pushed the schrader release valve.  hehe...I'm a slow learner...but I'm getting it.

I'll check it over the next few days...I left it at 40psi just to see if it gets down to 30 over the next day or 2....or if it stays solid.

[silver]

quick update, the bottle has not lost 1psi overnight.

versus before the procedure, at the track last weekend, we saw it drop from 60psi to 20 or less in about 5 minutes.....which would make you think there was a leak, but not necessarily, it just had to be re-calibrated.

[Radowick]

Kerry emailed me some corrections to this process. See additions in RED.


[quote="Spanky"]
This is the proper way to calibrate our systems per Masterlube;

1.   best done when engine & oil are cold.
      turn the ignition on without starting engine
      leave ignition on/engine off for the entire process
2.   when the gage needle has stopped dropping, what is the pressure reading?
3.   is the pressure reading below 30 psi?
      Yes:  go to step #4 
       No:  lower it to 30 psi using the top valve - go to step #6
4.   add more air to get it up to at least 30 psi thru the top valve
5.   go to step #2
6a. optional - turn off ignition, now you can do a complete engine oil change if it is time for it
6b. if not doing a full oil change - start the engine. this will recharge the Masterlube tank with oil and
    bring the system pressure up to approx. 60 psi

The key is to maintain the tank pressure of 30 psi of air when the tank is drained of all oil.

[/quote]

[silver]

so when it's all said and done with step 6b, you should have 60psi not 30psi...and that's what you should keep while your driving.

but when your changing oil....after the oil has drained from the tank you want 30psi in the tank....with no oil.

is that right?

[maverick1]

[quote="Spanky"]
The reving of the engine is to get the oil pressure up close to its' max. before shutting it off. By design, the Masterlube system is suppose to operate in a fully pressurized state at 60 psi to match the engine's max.           
[/quote]
Guys, I had a lengthy conversation with Kelly, the gentleman who created the Masterlube system and he told me that it operates best and provides the maximum engine pre-oiling when the system is on it's own dash board switch. He said that Brammo only integrated the system into the ignition because Brammo thought it's customers were not bright enough to remember to hit the switch before starting the car.
He said with normal day to day street driving you don't need the system to be constantly on, and the only times he said the system should be constantly on is on a race track, or I guess if you are carving some pretty twisty canyon roads.
If the system is on it's own switch the procedure is to turn on the system allowing the pressurized oil to enter the engine then turn the system off and start the car. Now with the system off when you are out and about driving the car, the system will be re-pressurized to the maximum engine oil pressure, which will probably exceed the pressure you get from revving the engine right before cutting off the engine after your drive. For example you might hit 6000 rpm when out driving on the road, while I don't think you will be revving the engine after your drive to 6000rpm in your garage.
Kelly said you want the maximum engine oil pressure to be in the tank before you turn off the ignition so you get the highest amount of oil pre-oiling the engine.
Since he designed and built the system, I would think he would be the person to listen to. Make sense? Give him a call and ask him first hand.
For those of you who have poor memories and cannot remember to hit the masterlube switch before you start your cars...then leave the system as is.
cheers

[silver]

Thanks Mav, it sounds like he is telling you and Spanky the same story!