Rod ends. Lots of choices; teflon lined,aluminum,chrome moly....

[Mr.Woolery]

[quote="CalScot"]
If you have beer , that's an acceptable error with me. WTF is a rod end anyway
[/quote]

Don't ask me to show you, I already have a reputation as a perv.

[PaulP]

Although I'm a new member I've been reading the Forum for 18 months and I know there have been several discusions on replacement suspension parts.  What I don't understand and please reply in simple language, I'm no engineer, but some of you do track days with other cars; Crate a rums, Sub a roos, M please, etc. 

In those other cars do you have to have suspension parts replaced every few track days?  I appreciate the Atom has greater cornering power than most cars, but surely the lighter weight means the stresses through the components will be equal?  Especially when compared with heavy cars such as the M please.

No criticism of the Atom intended, I'm just trying to understand more about the Atom before I'm lucky enough to own one.

Paul
 

[RichardR]

Hi Paul

The only suspension parts regularly worn are the spherical rodend joints. Most road cars don't use pushrod suspension therefore don't have these joints. Cars which do have these joints are usually racing cars and they need changing regularly.

[PaulP]

Thanks Rich, now I understand.

Paul

[maverick1]

[quote="PaulP"]
Thanks Rich, now I understand.

Paul
[/quote]
Welcome Paul. I am glad you asked this question as I was wondering the same thing. I currently have around 8,000 miles on my Atom which still looks like new, and was surprised I might need to change some suspension parts so soon. The car is basically still in new condition.
Regarding changing rod ends. Is it absolutely necessary to get your Atom aligned after you change the rod ends, if you have meticulously measured the number of threads for each rod end and replaced the new ends with the same number of threads showing?   
Cheersâ?¢

[MadMaxedAtom]

What if the shank on your new replacement rod ends are 1/8" longer (eye center to first thread) than the originals?

If that happened,your alignment will be off considerably if you use the "count the turns off/count the turns on" method of alignment only.

I think it would be a good idea for rod ends to wear out long before they fail from fatigue.

[wisp]

[quote="MadMaxedAtom"]
What if the shank on your new replacement rod ends are 1/8" longer (eye center to first thread) than the originals?

If that happened,your alignment will be off considerably if you use the "count the turns off/count the turns on" method of alignment only.
[/quote]

Exactly what I meant when I posted this in the "Clubroom":

RichardR had written:
"They're easy and cheap to change yourself by counting the threads before replacing......"

To which I replied:
"Probably not the most highly accurate method as the relationship of a given number of threads to the hole in the centre of the ball can differ, even in rod ends from the same manufacturer.
It's better to measure from the end on the component, that the rod end is screwed into, to the centre of the bolt hole in the ball. Then screw in the new rod end until you achieve the same measurement and tighten the lock nut."

[MadMaxedAtom]

Everyone that owns an Atom should be able to check and adjust their tow and camber.

It is not a difficult thing to do, and once you see it done, you will hate yourself for not knowing how to before.

The tools to check alignment range from relatively inexpensive to ridiculous.

However,they all do the same thing; measure. A $20k machine is no more accurate than a properly used tape measure.It is up to the operator to be precise or not.

Being able to adjust and judge settings yourself is an excellent aid in tuning the Atom.

Knowledge!   :tu:

[wisp]

[quote="MadMaxedAtom"]
Everyone that owns an Atom should be able to check and adjust their tow and camber.

It is not a difficult thing to do, and once you see it done, you will hate yourself for not knowing how to before.

Being able to adjust and judge settings yourself is an excellent aid in tuning the Atom.

[/quote]

So we can expect a How To DIY thread on adjusting tow and camber, in the tech section then? 

With pictures too please MM Atom. 

You've been abbreviated to a crunchy candy coated chocolate Atom  

[MadMaxedAtom]

I can do this.

[twebb]

Replacement of rod ends on an Atom has nothing to do with the fact that the Atom has push rod suspension (this is not a flame...just an observation).

The main problem/difference between the Atom and road going cars is that the suspension joints, for lack of a better word, are not protected in an Atom.  The rod ends are open to the elements including moisture and dirt.  As moisture and dirt get into the sherical bearings, the bearings wear and tolerances get sloppy.  Once you have sloppy rod ends, they need to be replaced.  If you've ever tried to get your race car to hold a setup with sloppy rod ends you will understand the problem. 

Street cars have all joint sealed from the elements.

We replace rod ends on race cars to ensure there is no slop in the joint and to keep stiction down as much as possible.

Cheers 

[NathanE]

I thought that most road cars use cheap and relatively durable poly or metal bushings in their suspension.  They don't wear at the same rate as rod ends, but then they don't work as well/freely either. 

[MadMaxedAtom]

Road vehicles do use a lot of bushings on inboard swing joints,(control arms,radius rods etc) but at the spindle,or vertical link,99.9% use conventional ball joints,which have a much larger load/bearing surface to wear against,compared to a spherical rod end.

Many have provisions for lubrication or are packed with lubricant and all of them (like twebb pointed out) are sealed from the elements.

[Dave Fellows]

[quote="twebb"]
The main problem/difference between the Atom and road going cars is that the suspension joints, for lack of a better word, are not protected in an Atom.  The rod ends are open to the elements including moisture and dirt.  As moisture and dirt get into the sherical bearings, the bearings wear and tolerances get sloppy.  Once you have sloppy rod ends, they need to be replaced.  If you've ever tried to get your race car to hold a setup with sloppy rod ends you will understand the problem.   :o

Street cars have all joint sealed from the elements.

[/quote]

Why isn't there a simple "cover" to go over the joints to protect them from the elements then? You could easily seal the joints with some sort of rubber sleave/cover.

[Mr.Woolery]

[quote="Dave Fellows"]
Why isn't there a simple "cover" to go over the joints to protect them from the elements then? You could easily seal the joints with some sort of rubber sleave/cover.
[/quote]

Yes, there are rubber covers available, though there are pros and cons with using them...main pro is keeping out dirt...main con is losing ability to visually inspect the joints.