Steering bushing is here and installed

[dingo]

If you want a better price for the same item sintered bronze, then look to the Reid Supply product and then call Bunting Bearings
USA  (419) 866-7000

I have not checked, they may only sell wholesale to distributors.

http://www.buntingbearings.com/images/distributor.htm

http://www.buntingbearings.com/images/3 ... owered.pdf

Worth a try if there were a few bought. 

TMI ??

[maverick1]

[quote="dingo"]
Here pushed in almost the enitre way. Left is towards front of the car.
The bushing extends all the way into the bracket.
All you can see of the bushing here is the flange end at steering wheel end and red RTV.
[/quote]
Dingo that bushing looks copper color from the photo. So the purpose of this entire procedure is to replace the 2 Delrin bushings with a single metal (brass) bushing?  Why did Brammo use 2 Delrin bushings and not 1, just curious?
Once you remove the Delrin bushings from the bracket and clean it out, what modifications are needed to the bracket and to the new metal bushing? What I'm asking is do both the outside and inside of the new bushing need to be sanded or machined in order for it all to fit together?
Cheersâ?¢

[dingo]

In my case only the bore needed the brake hone to increase ID a wee bit to admit the shaft and
rotate freely without wiggle. 

Bushing OD was just right to fit inside the bracket.  In DC's case he needed a press to get his in.

I guess you would not be too disadvatnaged if you purchased a bushing and find out the answers to these questions first hand.

About as much as can be told about this process has been presented earlier in this thread.

[Lane]

I ordered the bushing and the company advised me of a 2 week delivery time, and it came in less than a week.  Observations on the job:

* Weld on my steering shaft was messy, required a lot of grinding and sanding.
* New bushing was covered with something sticky, inside and out.  And when sanding the inside, the sticky junk in the inside grooves held onto the sanded metal particles which wasn't good.  Had to use paint thinner and a toothbrush to clean it thoroughly inside and out.
* Eyeballing the outer diameter of the bushing and the inner diameter of the carrier, I believe they looked close enough.  Others have mentioned using the temperature differential, or needing RTV because of a loose fit, but mine was just the opposite.  That 'close enough' really wasn't - it started going in easy but later became impossible and the fit was way too tight.  EDIT: Since I wasn't happy with the force that was required to install the bushing, it was removed and 1.5 thousandths was sanded off the outside.  After that, it went in as easily as it should have.
* A touch of oil before finally re-assembling made everything smooth as butter.

Thank you very much to those who found the replacement bushing and gave input on the job here. 

[silver]

I've got my replacement, but this will be the 2nd thing I do not do myself....I'll have Ray do it at Fortress

[MadMaxedAtom]

You guys are freaking me out.  I was THE FIRST to have a bronze bushing made and replace my stock shitty plastic ones.

The bushing only has to be a slip fit going into the column mount and a slip fit over the steering shaft.

A slip fit means just that; it slips into the column hole and slips over the steering column shaft. A very simple thing.

Why has this become such a problem? 

[DarthChicken]

Because every car is apparently different.  We're all ordering the same bushing, and sometimes its a friction fit, sometimes it slides right in, and other times it apparently is enough to break a 12 ton presss.

Yes, you were the first, and if you were coming to AtomWest I would have a 6 pack waiting for you.  As your not, I'lll drink it for you, and let you know how it was.

[MadMaxedAtom]

They can't be that different. Trial fit everything before applying 12 TONS of pressure. Christ...!

If they don't slip on/in,then either hone the bushing or take down the shaft.

Mine didn't fit perfect either. A few minutes with some sandpaper and all was well.

I'm not coming west because I would not return.

I don't drink much,so just take an extra lap for me. (Not a Polish one either )

[Lane]

[quote="QQQQ"]
They can't be that different. Trial fit everything before applying 12 TONS of pressure.
[/quote]

How do you trial fit something that requires a press to install?

It started going in easy, became more difficult at half-way, and became impossible at 90% or so.  Sorry, my telepathy is not that good so I didn't know how much effort would be required ahead of time otherwise I WOULD HAVE taken some off the outside of the bushing.  And from what others have reported here, it was not really expected either.

[MadMaxedAtom]

Lane,I am not attacking you personally.

The bushing is a SLIP fit. It slips into the steering column section and SLIPS over your steering shaft piece.

IF it does not,make it so it does. Some finish sanding. Think of it as fine tuning.

DON'T resort to force.

[skilly]

does QQQQ stand for 'four q' ?

[MadMaxedAtom]

[silver]

pretty sure it could also be pronounced Fah-Q.......or fork U.....right

[shinoo]

My steering column had too much slop as well.  We fit new brass bushings to it.  What a difference. 

[silver]

so I got my bushing....had it installed....same "slop" or lack there of as before I changed it.

My steering wheel never moved as in turned without the wheels turning, but you could move the shaft up and down a little bit inside the race.

after installing the new bushing, it's the same.

what's the problem you all were trying to fix before, the wheel turning without the wheels turning, OR, the shaft itself moving around inside the race?

thanks.