Steering bushing is here and installed

[dingo]

So far, so good.  I cleaned the inside of the bracket, dried it thoroughly, then smeared the High Temp red RTV thoughout as I wrote earlier was the plan.
Then plugged the holes with RTV (Gasket maker) for good measure.  Seems to be quite secure.  So today, as the tires \ rims are back, I can proceed to reassembly and for road test depending on rain status. Thanks Darth for your clarification on this exercise.

[silver]

Dingo, can you post some pics, of where this bushing is installed, I have followed this thread, but don't understand if the bushing is at the top or bottom or what?

[dingo]

You've seen the busing naked above from Darth's photos.
Here the bushing is pressed inside the bracket.  The red is high temp RTV as mentioned above .
The flange is to the steering wheel end. Where the flange rests on the bracket, is covered in RTV in this pic.
The steering tube shown has large splines Shown here at right) for the steering wheel quick release.
The splines at the other end (left in this pic) attach to the first universal joint of the steering column.
So, in this pic, you cannot see the bushing except for the flange and a bit inside of it.

[dingo]

Here pushed in almost the enitre way. Left is towards front of the car.
The bushing extends all the way into the bracket.
All you can see of the bushing here is the flange end at steering wheel end and red RTV.

[silver]

ahaa, thanks that makes sense!!!

when you put it back in will you take pics so that we can see basically the reverse process of removing it out of the car please!! thanks

[bolus]

could you take a picture of you sliding in and out slowly.......

[silver]

sick ba$tard

[dingo]

Well, I would show reassembly pictures if I'd taken any. 
Darth was right (of course) once the assembly is reconnected to the univesal joint, it's very clear that the plate can only fit
in one orientation.

I could see marks on the frame hanger from the (limited) height adjustment where it had been, toyed with the idea of changing that up,
but rejected that and went ahead to reassemble as it had been. 

I've taken it for a short drive this arvo and am not joking. 
It's a HUGE and I mean HUGE improvement. Back of my mind, I was thinking, did I tighten averything down?  Will it seize?
All for naught.  Simply wobble free.  Except..... I found another, smaller wobble and that's a teensy bit of play in the QR contraption.

Well, I'll take a picture with the steering wheel off, but it's of limited value, I reckon.  Back in a sec.

[DarthChicken]

I hope you used some loctite on the screws that hold the steering shafts together.  That was always my concern, having those back 

[dingo]

Yessir, blue Loctite on those puppies.

If they were to drop out, you could pull the steering wheel towards you enough to cause the splines of the steering wheel shaft to drop
out of the universal joint.

That would be embarrassing at the very least, possibly a whole lot worse.
But...you (DC) already know that. 

So, yes indeed.

I imagine that's why the design has two of those lock pins.
One deep into a counter hole and the other between the two spline ridges.

[silver]

Any last thoughts on things that worked and things that didn't


What can a layman such as myself who doesn't have access to a press, and no access to something to file or shave the bushing down, what can we do to install it without screwing it up?  Will the bolt and washer/nut combo work?  will it be needed, since Sloman's just dropped right in?

Did you use the RTV because your's had room to move, whereas Darth's had to be pressed in?

[dingo]

Tools 13mm wrenches (2)

remove dash cover and rear view mirrors.

Take a picture

Take dash off (I did not even have to disconnect any wires).

Use that link above to buy the bushing.  I bought mine from Reid Supply on line. SLB-466

Hex wrench.  I have a selection and cannot tell which exact size I used to loosen \ remove the lock pins

The short shaft I'm calling steering shaft (from wheel to universal joint under dash) mates to the universal joint.
The knuckle into which the steering shaft goes has two hex head set screws.  Remove both.
Pull steering shaft out of bracket.

You will see that the bracket is fastened to the chassis with four bolts and loknuts. Remove them.
 
Pull Delrin bushings out.  Clean the inside bore of the bracket.

The only tools you may not have
a hydraulic press and for that, you can go to a local garage and they'll have a press.
Brake hone  If you've got a Tool Town or hardware store nearby, ask them, or go to a car parts store, ask them.  I already had one, but it was too big to go inside the busing bore (story of my life)  and I hav=d to go buy a smaller one. Use housold oil or cutting fluid. Atttach the brake hone to a drill variable speed.

If the steering shaft does not easily fit inside as was the case for mine, I lubed it up, ran my battery powered drill that was driving th ebrake hone and took a few minutes in and out etc then checked the fit. A little bit more, etc. until it was a smooth glide of steering shaft intothe bushing bore.

Reasseb. 

[silver]

ok I was about to buy one....it says call to special order?  did you have to special order? if so is there anything else that I need to specify when ordering?

[dingo]

Ah yes, I used RTV for that reason. I had expected to use a press.

So to clarify, you're not shaving anything down. This is not whittling.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbrak08.html

The one I used is 267 shown there and it has two "fingers"

On ordering. I too called (as they for some reason want to talk to you.  They (Reid) don't make it, they order from the manufacturer who drop ships to you.

Mine took about 3 weeks from order to delivery.

[silver]

ok, next question coming in 3 weeks then hehe