Ariel.Club Forum

orginal post here:

http://forum.atomclub.com/index.php/topic,6418.msg129450.html#msg129450

I ordered the $26.38 version, without the graphite plugs.  I suggest anybody else do the same, because you DO have to modify it a little to make it all work.  Here it is though!  Grooves included in case you want to grease (I won't be)

First thing is to take the steering apart, and that includes the bracket itself off of the car.  You're going to need to clean and polish it out, its UGLY (and probably rusty).

Also polish the shaft itself, being careful to remove any welds that are sticking up.

Here is the steering shaft polished.  Be careful not to take too much off... a light sanding along the shaft with 230 grit paper is more than enough.  On the weld itself (where the "teeth" are) be careful to grind down the welds, but not to touch the teeth.

After you polish everything up, you're gonna need to take the bushing to somebody that has a press.  Even with the raceway cleaned up, you'll never get it in there.  Trust me on this, I have the bruises to prove it... just take it to a shop that has a press, and have them press it into the race.

Once that is done, you'll probably notice that you can't get your steering shaft into the bushing.  Have no fear.... take 1/2" drillbit (or some other long drillbit) and wrap it with sandpaper.  Stick it inside the bushing, and start sanding.  Check your work often, you don't want to take off too much, and the sandpaper will take off the bronze in a hurry. 

When you're all done, it'll look like this, and you'll have MUCH better steering!

[quote="DarthChicken"]
When you're all done, it'll look like this, and you'll have MUCH better steering![/quote]

Shouldn't it have a steering wheel sticking out of it?  Sorry feeling a little SmartAlec-like.

Instead of a drill bit and some sandpaper (a rough tool) if the bores' large enough (3/4" or so) a brake cylinder hone might make a much better tool. At less than $10 it might fit the bill.

It might have worked, but I got impatient and started the bushing into the race.... and then couldn't get it out, LOL.  So it was full steam ahead for me. 

Thanks for all this info Darth. Do you have the part # for the Aluminum Bronze version you ordered? I could not find it on the other thread.

"You can get the exact setup needed (ie 3/4" ID, 1.1255 OD... you may have to lightly sand the bushing and/or steering shaft pipe).  The shaft pipe the bushing is held in is 3.75" long... so if you order the 3.875" bushing, it would be about perfect (because the 3.875" includes 3/16" of flange, so part inside the tube itself is 3.6875").  You have two choices in that length, either graphite plugged (at $65.88 each, PN SLB-406), or the MUCH more eccomical Aluminum Bronze versions (at $26.38 each).  What you'll get with the aluminum bronze is a better bushing that what I would have designed, make out of better material, at a price about $20 cheaper, and I doubt you'll have to wait 2 months for it."

The link I had provided isn't working.  The part I ordered was SLB-466.

http://www.reidsupply.com/detail.aspx?R=SLB-466&ST=

They have the pictures reversed on the page (graphite plug vs. plain)

what is the advantage / disadvantage of the graphite plugs?

Better self lubricating apparently. I would say probably better for a high load situation, but for something like this (very low load/rpm) probably pointless.

Re: pressing the bushing into the race...

The temp differential idea is a good one and works.  I've used this technique several times to get really close tolerance pieces to fit together easily.  To make things easier, I'd suggest that the bushing be put into your freezer for ~30 mins to get it cold...and also put the raceway part into your oven & heat it, too.
This will give a high enough expansion/contraction differential in the metals that the bushing should just drop into the raceway.  The funny part is, the only specialized tools you'd need are oven mitts. 

Awesome! Thanks for figuring this out. What would be the advantage of greasing the bushing and why did you decide not to do it?

I saw darth's setup last night.  I did not get to try the steering since it was not installed yet but the parts were very smooth together and had a very good fit with no play.  This looks like a good solution (if you have the 50 ton press that is)

The setup I used was just a 12 ton press (hydralic jack with a frame around it really).

Spanky - I tried as high as 450 degrees for 30 minutes.  The race is 1.120", the bushing is 1.125"... I think its just a little too much difference to ask of an oven and a normal refrigerator.

Guys with this new bushing setup do you have to lubricate it at all?
I ask because at Atomfest my steering almost seized up completely, however Joe from Hallett somehow contorted his body and strayed some white lube on the steering shaft and it did loosen up.
Cheersâ?¢