Brammo Atom Torques

[maverick1]

From looking at all the torque specs, all the Nyloc nuts have no torque number. I guess you just tighten them to where they feel snug.
cheers

[Karl]

That's pretty much standard practice for Nylock fasteners... also, you should replace any locking fastener with a fresh one after removal if it is on a critical component.

[Terry Kennedy]

An important addendum to the Brammo table if you have the billet bellcranks:

The bolt / locknut attaching the shock absorber to the bellcrank arm should be 12 ft/lbs, not the 33 in the table. This is due to the thinner locknut supplied.
The bolt attaching the suspension pushrod end to the bellcrank arm should be 10 ft/lbs as it is going into threaded aluminum on the bellcrank. It is kept from turning by the safety wire.

These numbers are from Jacob at Unique Fabricating.

[Karl]

Hmm... and for those of us without safety wire on our billet bellcranks, what do we do?

I'll have to check when I get home whether I even have the appropriate holes on the bolt heads.

[Terry Kennedy]

[quote="Karl"]
Hmm... and for those of us without safety wire on our billet bellcranks, what do we do?

I'll have to check when I get home whether I even have the appropriate holes on the bolt heads.
[/quote]

There were a couple different iterations of the billet bellcranks, but I think they all used safety wire. Take a look at the edge of the bellcrank near where the pushrod bolt goes through - there should be a small hole for the safety wire there.

If you can't find it, let me know and I'll post a pic.

[Karl]

Found the safety wire holes, wired up all 4 bellcranks.  Why they weren't wired at the factory is still a mystery...

[Terry Kennedy]

[quote="Spanky"]
In the previous post, I calculated the torque using standard formulas for bolts. And today, I went to re-torque my calipers. The values I caluculated seemed to be kind of low (opposed to Brammo's that seemed too high) So I first used a 6" ratchet-socket wrench to snug them up. I then used my torque wrench to see what the torque was created by just snugging them. My small digital torque wrench clicked off at 10 ft/lbs. To then get the torque up to the 15 ft/lbs (using anti-sieze paste) was now surely feeling too light.     

So I came home and did some more searching and I found this online:  http://www.futek.com/boltcalc.aspx

Using this caculator for my caliper bolts, it gives a recommended value of 33 ft/lbs. Adjusting that value for using the anti-sieze past, it works out to 27 ft/lbs........................for anyone who cares to watch me split hairs.
[/quote]

FWFW, my uprights from Tom came with an early draft of the instructions which said that the caliper bolts were 3/8", torqued to 12 lb ft. After discussing this with Tom, we decided it should be M10 x 1.5 torqued to 20 lb ft after using anti-seize.

[Terry Kennedy]

[quote="Brammo Torque Specs"]68 UP 7 AN6-22A 2 3/8-24 x 2 1/4 AN Hex Steel Cad Tie Rod to Steering Arm 33[/quote]

Assuming I'm reading this right and it refers to the bolt through the steering arm rod end and through the front upright, this line is in error. The bolt in question is 2 1/2" long, not 2 1/4" as shown on the sheet.