Ariel.Club Forum

In case anybody wants to stock some spare wheel bearings and seals for their Brammo built Atom, Here are the part numbers:

This post has been modified to correct a previous inaccuracy.

Wheel bearings:

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/N ... ront+Wheel

NAPA part number BRGB32 - This wheel bearing is also sold by most other parts houses, O'Riely, AutoZone, etc. under their own part number. Have them do a search in wheel bearings for "559225" It also carries a FAG part number 051-3863 and a SKF/NGK part number 51 2578.

$62.99  each at NAPA

Wheel bearing seal:

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/N ... ront+Wheel

NAPA part number NOS18727 This wheel bearing is also sold by most other parts houses, O'Riely, AutoZone, etc. under their own part number. Have them do a search in oil seals for "18727"

$9.69 each at NAPA

A complete car set includes (4) wheel bearings and (4) wheel seals.

You will need a gear puller to remove the hub from the axle and a hydraulic press to remove/replace bearings in the uprights. Simple job with the right tools.



Be sure to pack the seal with high temperature disc brake wheel bearing grease on reassembly and torque axle nuts to 200 ft/lb. 

And remember to check the hub axle nuts before every track day, to avoid any unnecessary heartache.
Randy, glad to see you have her put back together.
cheers

This is really great information! I still can't help but long for a maintenance manual that has these super photos, part numbers, torque ratings, etc.,etc! Obviously there are things that mere mortals, such as myself, won't be able to competently do, but an explanation with pictures, like these, are invaluable!!! How about another catagory in the threads that has do do only with maintanance?  Moderators?

[quote="maverick1"]
And remember to check the hub axle nuts before every track day, to avoid any unnecessary heartache.
Randy, glad to see you have her put back together.
cheers
[/quote]

I dont care how often you get around to checking them but that wheel shaft and nut should have some kind of retainer or locking mechanism. My car has a slot at the end of the shaft that has a portion of the nut locked into it.




You could replace the nut, shown in the photo above, with a castle nut (pictured below) and drill a hole through the shaft for a thick split pin. The use of castle nuts and split pins is pretty standard in the hubs of many cars. I don't see why the Atom should be an exception.

Even after torquing my axle nut to 200 this weekend... it still managed to come loose during an on track session this weekend. Luckily, this time nothing broke.

Definitely sounds like we need to go with the castle nuts.  I saw a few race prepped cars at my last track day with these in place. 

[quote="wisp"]
[quote="maverick1"]
And remember to check the hub axle nuts before every track day, to avoid any unnecessary heartache.
Randy, glad to see you have her put back together.
cheers
[/quote]

I dont care how often you get around to checking them but that wheel shaft and nut should have some kind of retainer or locking mechanism. My car has a slot at the end of the shaft that has a portion of the nut locked into it.




You could replace the nut, shown in the photo above, with a castle nut (pictured below) and drill a hole through the shaft for a thick split pin. The use of castle nuts and split pins is pretty standard in the hubs of many cars. I don't see why the Atom should be an exception.

[/quote]
That sounds like a great idea. I guess the only way it could come loose is if it were to brake the locking pin. Are there any downsides to using this system?
cheers

[quote="Spanky"]
I just got back from a trip to the NAPA store. And now I am confused. The "associate" showed me on his parts search screen that both of these bearings mentioned earlier are interchangeable. And as a matter of fact, it showed a third bearing (from China!!!!) that are suppose to be the same application, just differant quality.
[/quote]

They are two different sizes. I'll post a photo of the two side-by-side when I get back out to my shop.

Time for me to eat some crow. I carefully measured and photographed the bearings today and this is what I found.

[img width=800 height=533]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/ ... GP2587.jpg[/img]

The bearing on the left came from the smaller box behind it. It was made in Canada under the FAG brand under the part # 051-3863

The bearing on the right was made in Japan and marked NGK (NAPA packaging says SKF). NAPA part number B32 other numbers on the NAPA box include 51 and 2578

[img width=800 height=533]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/ ... GP2590.jpg[/img]

Apart from their packaging differences, the FAG bearing appears to have an integral seal (both sides) while the NGK/SKF is open.

Dimensionally they are pretty much identical.

[img width=800 height=533]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/ ... GP2591.jpg[/img]

Sorry for the previous misleading post. I relied on the difference in packaging size and cost and drew the wrong conclusion. 

[quote="1965Cobra427"]
Time for me to eat some crow. I carefully measured and photographed the bearings today and this is what I found.

[img width=800 height=533]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/ ... GP2587.jpg[/img]

The bearing on the left came from the smaller box behind it. It was made in Canada under the FAG brand under the part # 051-3863

The bearing on the right was made in Japan and marked NGK (NAPA packaging says SKF). NAPA part number B32 other numbers on the NAPA box include 51 and 2578

[img width=800 height=533]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/ ... GP2590.jpg[/img]

Apart from their packaging differences, the FAG bearing appears to have an integral seal (both sides) while the NGK/SKF is open.

Dimensionally they are pretty much identical.

[img width=800 height=533]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/ ... GP2591.jpg[/img]

Sorry for the previous misleading post. I relied on the difference in packaging size and cost and drew the wrong conclusion. 
[/quote]
Randy is one bearing any better than the other. Is having an integral seal (both sides) better than an open bearing..? Pros and cons?
Cheersâ?¢

I doubt there's any question that the protected bearing may have a slight (insignificant) amount of drag but it sure is easier to keep the bearings and races cleaner! Randy?

It seems to me that the cleaner the better. Of course in the Atom design, an additional seal is applied too, so I think cleanliness is pretty good regardless.

Presumably, if you drill the axle to put a lock pin in through the castle nut, you need to tighten the nut to exactly the same position every time it is replaced?

Could this lead to problems if components are not exactly the same size or threads on replacement nuts are not cut exactly the same in relation to the castlations?

[quote="Mr.Toad"]
Presumably, if you drill the axle to put a lock pin in through the castle nut, you need to tighten the nut to exactly the same position every time it is replaced?

Could this lead to problems if components are not exactly the same size or threads on replacement nuts are not cut exactly the same in relation to the castlations?
[/quote]

Only has to be within 1/6 of a turn. Pretty easy in actual practice.

Per an e-mail from Tom, I've added Loctite® and re-torqued back to 200 on Monday. If it comes loose again... then it's back to the drawing board. I'd rather not try to drill into that axle. If you're off a few degrees, then it won't line up correctly at the other end of the castle nut