Towing an Atom

[Lane]

I use a dolly, have had no problems so far.  Last enclosed aluminum trailer I'd borrowed resulted in 7-8 mpg (4wd Dakota w/V8).  Towing this dolly with the Atom on it, the air on, and the cruise set at 75mph is good for 16 mpg.  Very happy with that, and I love this thing.  Can't even tell its there most of the time, and since it & the car weigh in at less than 2000 lbs total, the truck can easily remain in overdrive most of the time.


Larger high-res pic can be viewed here: http://www.evilatom.com/forum/dolly_l.jpg

Since I took the pic, I've installed a hitch with a few inches less drop so the dollly ramps are positioned further away from the tub while in transit.  Also bought some Moon racing disc hub caps for the dolly since its look needed some improvement now that the Atom rides on it. 

[maverick1]

Lane, I noticed that you tow it with the back wheels on the ground. I was told that when you tow vehicles with the drive wheels on the ground you have to do something to the transmission. Whenever we had one of our trucks towed they had to remove the drive shafts or they said it would ruin the trucks transmission.
Would it be better for the rear drive Atom to tow it with the rear wheels off the ground?
cheers

[Lane]

[quote="maverick1"]
Would it be better for the rear drive Atom to tow it with the rear wheels off the ground?
[/quote]

I did some research before I used the dolly with the Atom, here's what I found:

From http://www.saturnteam.com/members/downloads/ST4382.pdf
"Q: Do I have to limit my speed while flat-towing a Saturn?
A: All towable Saturn vehicles are designed to be flat-towed at normal vehicle speeds up
to 65 mph.*"

There's another PDF here with a chart based upon model, and the LSJ Red Line is listed there also:
http://www.saturnteam.com/members/downloads/ST4379.pdf

Granted, I'm not flat towing it with all 4 wheels on the ground, but I don't know what the difference would be since it is the drive wheels that matter.  From those two links, it looks like it should be fine.  But if anyone can find any other info on the web indicating this may not be the best idea - by all means, I'd be interested in knowing.

Interestingly, a google search on Cobalt SS didn't bring up any useful info - had to search on Saturn Ion.

[MadMaxedAtom]

Towing a stick with the wheels on the ground will not hurt the transaxle.If it were an automatic it can cause damage due to the fact that the oil is not being curculated for lubrication.
A manual transaxle is lubed by splash basically,so no prob towing.

Personally,I want my Atom enclosed and off the ground during transit.Towing with a diesel returns 15-20mpg depending on terrain.

[rfmarz@frontiernet]

Man, what kind of diesel are you towing with? When I went to Atomfest I towed an enclosed trailer fast  (70-80 mph) but in tow of semi's slipstream and managed
10. a little mpg. At $3 plus, it is significant!!! I can't imagine CalScots diesel bill towing the enclosed trailer with a hugh motorhome at a high rate of speed. Whew!

[maverick1]

[quote="rfmarz"]
Man, what kind of diesel are you towing with? When I went to Atomfest I towed an enclosed trailer fast  (70-80 mph) but in tow of semi's slipstream and managed
10. a little mpg. At $3 plus, it is significant!!! I can't imagine CalScots diesel bill towing the enclosed trailer with a hugh motorhome at a high rate of speed. Whew!
[/quote]
CalScot told me he could have almost bought a second Atom with the amount of money he spent on fuel. LOL LOL
If my car had a higher towing rating I would also consider using a tow dolly.
Anyone know how much the tow dolly's weigh?
Cheersâ?¢

[MadMaxedAtom]

I bought the smallest,(std cab,8' bed) lightest (2wd xl) diesel F250 made and was towing a 1600lb. open trailer;I got 16-20mpg. This coming year,I will be using an aerodynamic enclosed all alu trailer weighing in at around 2k lbs. A few mods to the truck (tune,exhaust,intake) should return a solid 20 mpg,with 525ft.lbs tq.

It's all about weight and aerodynamics.

Look at most enclosed trailers and you will find its like dragging a brick behind you.

I do believe you will see more and more trailers being built with less wind drag as a very key element.

Fuel ain't getting any cheaper and racetracks aren't getting any closer..

[rfmarz@frontiernet]

Are you going by the mpg showing on the guage or by calculating at the fillup? I have to "tow safe" setting on my chip and the mpg showing is really ~1.39 times my actual mileage. ie. 14.2 showing is really ~10.2. No wonder so many people are fooled into thinking that a chip increases their mileage!

[MadMaxedAtom]

No,no no.I don't use gadgets.If I drive 300 miles and use 15 gallons of diesel fuel,that is 20 mpg.

I don't trust gizmos...

I'm working on my latest tow vehicle..remember,less is more..

sleep, my pretty...

[Driver]

Some diesels get quite good mileage, but others are abysmal. Research it, make the right choices.  i don't think the cab size of the diesel in the long run makes that MUCH difference. The combined weight does though, so get a 2500 if possible unless the weight of your trailer dictates the 3500 (same engine, just a heavier suspension which usually means you actually have less total capacity).  And get the short bed so it's easier to maneuver. scrimping on the smaller cab just pisses off the wife and the kids will freeze crammed in the bed of the truck.   Remember dual wheels are just extra weight and usually a stiffer final gear ratio. You WANT the 3:73's not the 4:10's if it's for long distance highway hauling. Furthermore Airbag that sucker and get it slammed on the highway and get even better mileage, avoid 4wd like the plague as well as those humongous Ranch Hand steel bumpers. every other truck I see, even the gas powered ones think they have to have a 800 pound steel bumper on the front of their trucks.. 

I have several customers with Dodge Diesels that mention getting 20+ with a small trailer/rv. And then there are the people that have gear splitters like my father with his 3500 dualie... although the 17K pound fifth wheel keeps it in the 12-14 mpg range. The mid-90's 12 valves seem to get the best mileage for the Dodge's. Starting around 98 they added electronics, the auto trans was the weak spot but the sticks are schweeet. According to one of my customer who runs about ten of them in his electric business for every 15k OVER 50K the MPG should go up a little until 100k or so. They're just getting broke in according to his detailed logs.

[MadMaxedAtom]

I have owned a 1999 F550 Powerstroke F550 6x6 automatic XLT two car carrier,alu 19' bed,self adj. Link air suspension, for 6 years now and have done things with that truck that which have amazed me.

All along getting 12mpg empty(12.5k lbs) or 10mpg fully loaded (20k).

Never wanted for more power.Empty,it flows with traffic just fine.Even lightly loaded.

Using my work tow truck for interstate travel requires too many regulations to be followed,so it's back to the trailer for long hauls,but with changes.

I tried a 2001 F350 dually 6x6,but it was just to...bulky to use when not towing.Got great mileage though (15-20)


So,I recently bought a 2001 Powerstroke (7.3L big block), F250, std cab (no kids and the Wifey does not attend races), long bed (38gal tank vs. 23 gal) 2wd. (its only for towing in the summer) tow package,3:73 open diff. auto,(would have prefered a stick but oh well) with no "extras" (other than A/C)

SCT tuner tow mode ,Amsoil filter,free flow exhaust. 525ft.lbs of grunt.

for $9k less than I just got for My F250 Lariat 4x4 5.4 gas Bubba pickup.      I had to do the deal. Even though it was a gorgeous truck..

I'm working on lowering the rear and using air ride as well on the "new"  PSD Superduty. Just your basic hauler...

...................and....my own creation of a paint job.

I LOVE building models that have a use when you're done..

Trailer will be a custom Renegade Aero all alu  20' custom interior with bunks,storage etc.

I'm waiting for a certain one at a local dealership to go on sale as a leftover... cuz I am cheap.

He's dropped about $2k since first negotiations...


As another option,I know where I can get a 6k. mile 2006 Dodge 2500 SLT 2wd. Cummins, stick,std cab,long bed, A/C,pw,pl,cruise,single cd,alloys,tow package,for $20k,plus $1k to ship.
Nice trucks.Rugged,dependable if equipped properly.


I could then make the 01 F250 a spare.

I'm In the haggle-ing stage... as usual...

[DarthChicken]

This thread has been moving along much too smoothly, so I'm gonna throw a wrench in it.

Why on EARTH would you want to tow your atom?!  By towing it, you're defeating its very purpose - to DRIVE on the road.  If you tow it to a track.. well heck, for 60-70k, I could build or buy a car that would do better than the atom on track, but it would be a track only car completely unfit (and illegal) on the road.

I'm not saying its a great idea to drive it across country (although I personally think its a great car for that because of the adventure involved).  But if you're track is less than 100 miles away, I don't see the point of towing it.  Drive it to the track, have a great time, and drive it home.

You're missing out if you're not driving the car on the street... on the backroads... and on your way to the track IMO. 

[Driver]

You know I wonder if Darth's idea of a prepping for a trip is to stand outside in the 30 degree weather in his speedos and have the wife hit him with a power washer. 

I concur that people should be behind the wheel of the Atom, not trailering it. But I also can see the need to take along nicer "accomodations" (crap, extra junk, rv's, generators, tents, etc...) if you are going to be spending a few days somewhere with few creature comforts. Not everyone is as big a glutton for punishment from rain sleet and snow as you are in a open vehicle Darth.

[Lane]

[quote="DarthChicken"]
Why on EARTH would you want to tow your atom?!
[/quote]

Not sure if the question was directed at me, but I'll lend my thoughts anyway.

Personally, I don't want to tow it.  But I do when I need additional space to take several sets of tires to the track.  Plus if a mishap does happen on the track, there's a better chance of being able to get the car home easily if I'm quite a distance away.  I once spun an engine bearing in a prior car that I'd driven to the track.  I was very thankful that AAA took care of the flatbed ride back home because it was 3 states away.  After that I thought a bit differently about odds, safety margin, practicality, etc.  But I will be driving it most of the time.

[quote="DarthChicken"]
I'm not saying its a great idea to drive it across country (although I personally think its a great car for that because of the adventure involved).
[/quote]

Yep, have done that.  Will probably happen again also.

[quote="DarthChicken"]
But if you're track is less than 100 miles away, I don't see the point of towing it.
[/quote]

I'm in the middle of Wisconsin and unfortunately, there are no tracks that close by. 

[quote="DarthChicken"]
You're missing out if you're not driving the car on the street... 
[/quote]

Nah, I don't think I'm missing out at all. And winter is no excuse for the rest of ya - the Atom still wants to come out and play.

[DarthChicken]

Was definitely not directed at you Lane.  It was a very general comment - if you need to trailer your track car, and see the need to bring loads of equipment... to me, that defeats the purpose of having an Atom, and you might as well build up a track only car thats better suited to a track only environment.

I guess I just hate trailering more than I hate less than ideal weather.