Brake light switch?

[toby]

Anyone know the brand name/ part number / supplier for the brake light switch on a Brammo Atom 2?
Mine has failed, and I noticed rummaging through the forums that this is not unprecedented. I also noticed some recommending a motorcycle brake light switch. Has anyone had luck with an alternative like this, and if so, can you point me in the right direction?

Thanks!

[silver]

a few people have posted this, I think Lane had a good fix for it?

search didn't get you results?

[toby]

I did rummage through some search results, but found only generic references to the switch failing. Now that you've said it's been discussed before, though, I'll redouble my search efforts!

[silver]

Try advanced search with brake and user lane

[silver]

http://forum.atomclub.com/https://atomc ... 98#p200498

also

capblaster said he got a replacement brake switch from TMI for 16 bux

[toby]

Thanks guys! I guess I was hoping for a source / part number I could order today, rather than waiting until Monday, when TMI opens again (they're closed the whol week).

This is a willwood part, isn't it?

Lane's solution sounds interesting, too. I may evenutally try something like that roller switch. At the moment, though I just want the brake lights to work again...

[Karl]

Pegasus carries one that looks like it could be a drop-in replacement: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produc ... RecID=5028

Double-check the thread size (they have a variety of different ones).

[maverick1]

Toby, I replaced mine with this one.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/240-533 ... results=10

However it was too long to screw all the way in so I had to cut it down a bit.
Works fine now.

[toby]

OK, so I think I have most of the parts I need for Lane's solution that replaces the fluid pressure switch with a roller switch activated by the pedal arm. I'm going to give it a shot and report back. Wish me luck.

[Lane]

Just a note - Instead of replacing my failed pressure switch with another pressure-type, I chose a roller because of the number of others who had reported similar pressure switch failures as well.  Worse than just the brake lights not coming on, I didn't want any chance that the next one would fail when I'm several thousand miles from home in a manner that would cause spraying fluid or a total loss of brakes (as some owners have reported, if I recall correctly).

I've put about 4000 miles on my roller switch since installing it, everything from very harsh rainstorms on the highway to a number of track days, and no problems so far.

[John Scherrer]

I've tried researching the Goodridge brake pressure switch on the net to get details of its electrical spec - in particular the switching capacity, but it isn't mentioned anywhere that I can see.

I was thinking that the average brake light is 21 watts. For 2 lamps that would be 42 watts which at 12 volts ought to draw 3.5 amps (Watts/Volts = Amps).
That could be more if there was an additional high level brake light fitted (are these LED or filament?).
Physicists may argue that the initial switch on surge current is higher.

I'm guessing that there is no relay and that this switch switches the 12 volt side of the brake light circuit and not the ground.
I've seen on other car forums where failed switches have been dissected and the switch contacts show signs of severe arcing and burning.

These pressure switches even when they're working require a fair amount of pressure to work giving that inability to touch the brake pedal to warn too-close-behind folk that they're getting too friendly. I'm with the pedal-mounted switch brigade with a relay (3.5 amp is a lot for a microswitch) where it's also adjustable for sensitivity.

[Terry Kennedy]

[quote="John Scherrer"]
These pressure switches even when they're working require a fair amount of pressure to work giving that inability to touch the brake pedal to warn too-close-behind folk that they're getting too friendly. I'm with the pedal-mounted switch brigade with a relay (3.5 amp is a lot for a microswitch) where it's also adjustable for sensitivity.[/quote]

At WCAII someone (Spaz?) commented to me that he thought my brake lights weren't working, but he later realized I wasn't using the brakes

[GNU]

Toby,
Take the opportunity to replace the broken switch with a brake switch that is safe and reliable (hint: the original switch is neither safer nor reliable)

[toby]

I took Arvid and Lane's advice and replaced the pressure switch with the mechanical switch from radio shack.

I fabricated an aluminum bracket, drilled 2 holes in the brake assembly bracket, bolted them together, then attached the brake switch wires to the mechanical switch, the swich to the aluminum bracket so the roller rested on the brake pedal arm.

Press brake. Switch opens. Brake lights turn on. Yay!

Thanks!

[FrankRizzo]

Mine just failed as well, so I did the digging to find the original part.

It's a Goodridge BL Banjo Bolt 3/8-24 - ZINC

Part No. 03-6036.

I found it at a local Harley Davidson dealer.

It IS about a 1/4-1/2 inch too long, but when comparing the ends of the original one to the new one, it's obvious that Brammo cut it down to make it fit.