Getting Early Atom2 safe/track ready

[Terry Kennedy]

Disclaimer: I'm currently selling a molded intake & ECU.

If you have an early car, you probably have the 'dryer hose' air intake; you sould change it.
Either get a molded intake, or make a straignt intake to get air from the driver's side.

I'm not in the market (I have a couple of each), but as a semi-knowledgeable bystander, a swap may also involve injectors and harness and a pulley. Of course, all of those are commodity items, so someone could easily pick them up elsewhere and pair them w/ your intake and ECU. That combo will do a great job of upgrading an older Brammo car, and not break the bank for any future upgrades.

TMI have upgraded washers for the front and rear uprights.
One of the reasons that the bearings fail is because these washers were not hard enough.
Definately a good thing to consider before upgrading uprights.

I had TMI swap my front washers out at Atomfest II (the rears came off when I put the Unique Fabricating uprights on, as they came w/ new washers). There was no appreciable deformation of my original washers after 17,000+ miles. I think this is one of the things where Brammo changed suppliers later on and the newer parts were not as good. On the other hand, it is an inexpensive upgrade.

Shinoo's (Hytech) exhaust is $2500.  It seems to be holding up well,  but still has issues with sound at Laguna Seca.

Lots of Atoms had problems meeting the noise restrictions at LS. A Supertrapp is a tradeoff between backpressure and noise (depending on the number of plates). Some owners found that with the number of plates needed to pass the sound test, the engine performance went way down after a lap or so.

If doing engine upgrades, be careful if going beyind ~280HP, as the stock pistons tend to blow up after this.

Zip tie the rear passenger side brake line, so that it cannot rub against the serpantine belt.

Check the direction of the front intercooler fan (the horizontal one.)
It should blow up and not down.

The other things on an early Brammo Atom would be the padding on the coolant lines at the back of the tub, and mesh sleeving on the fuel lines.

[Karl]

[quote="payne"]
So it looks like I should replace the intake (if vacuum cleaner) and exhaust before tuning and get new rear uprights and springs before cornerweighting?

Any idea what the complete HyTech exhaust costs?  $1500?  $2500?

Karl-  What spring rates are you running?  I was very impressed with your setup.  Are you on stock valving on your Konis?

Cheers,
Jason
[/quote]

I've currently got 50N/mm front, 90N/mm rear. Stock valving on the Konis.