Ariel.Club Forum

Answer to a question I had yet to ask.  I have a leaky wilwood.  Guess I know how to deal with it now.

Thanks!

Okay, dumb question.

I had the Wilwoods.  I just took them out.

I have the Tilton reservoir, and am ready to install it.

However.

I think I need to make some kind of bracket to go from the old mounting points to the new mounting points.

What did everyone else do?

[quote="Nicholas"]
I think I need to make some kind of bracket to go from the old mounting points to the new mounting points.

What did everyone else do?
[/quote]

The Tilton and the Wilwood are supposed to be 100% interchangeable. Your reservoir mounting holes aren't in a triangle shape?

The wilwood resevoirs are three individual reservoirs with two mounting holes 1.19" apart.  They appear to he about 1.25" apart from each other.

The tilton all in one reservoir has two mounting holes 2.75" apart.
They also are higher up in the body of the unit so it needs mounting points about an inch higher.
There are two holes that i could use, but the hand brake gets in the way.

So no, not a drop in replacement.

See 1st post of this thread ... ?

Requiring only a 4"x5" plate to mount up..and all the hoses fit fine:

Looks like an aluminium fabricated bracket in that photo .. ?

[quote="Nicholas"]
The tilton all in one reservoir has two mounting holes 2.75" apart.
[/quote]

I didn't realize you were using an all-in-one reservoir. I thought you were just swapping between the Wilwood and Tilton individual reservoirs.

Ah.
I missed the part in the original post about the bracket.

So, I designed a bracket, see attachment.

The back of the Tilton seems to have a flat mounting part about 1" wide, and 1 1/2" around each of the mounting holes.  I designed the bracket to have 0.2" around each of these flat parts.
(If anyone needs the AutoCAD versions of this bracket, please just send me an email.)

I also designed the bracket to raise the mounting holes about 1 1/2" above the old mounting holes, otherwise the reservoir hits the hand brake.

I designed two brackets, one closed at the top, one open. I guess it depends on how strong a material I make the bracket out of...

Nick.

[quote="Terry Kennedy"]
The Tilton and the Wilwood are supposed to be 100% interchangeable.
[/quote]

WHOA!  This may be exactly what I need.  Assuming of course that the Tiltons don't leak like the wilwoods do.

Also, what's safe/good/safe to use to clean up the brake fluid?  :-

[quote="FrankRizzo"]
[quote="Terry Kennedy"]
The Tilton and the Wilwood are supposed to be 100% interchangeable.
[/quote]

WHOA!  This may be exactly what I need.  Assuming of course that the Tiltons don't leak like the wilwoods do.

Also, what's safe/good/safe to use to clean up the brake fluid?  :-
[/quote]

I think Terry is referring to these: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3558
No idea how good they are.

As for cleaning up brake fluid, usually the best you can do is wipe. If the part you're cleaning is tolerant of very harsh solvents, then use brake cleaner or degreaser. If brake fluid dries on your garage floor, it'll clean up with Simple Green.

[quote="Karl"]
I think Terry is referring to these: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3558
No idea how good they are.
[/quote]

YES!  This is exactly what I was asking about.  Would replacing a wilwood with one of these Tiltons stop my incessant leak.

[quote="Karl"]
As for cleaning up brake fluid, usually the best you can do is wipe. If the part you're cleaning is tolerant of very harsh solvents, then use brake cleaner or degreaser. If brake fluid dries on your garage floor, it'll clean up with Simple Green.
[/quote]

Well, the part in question is inside the car.  :-

[quote="FrankRizzo"]
YES!  This is exactly what I was asking about.  Would replacing a wilwood with one of these Tiltons stop my incessant leak.[/quote]
The main issue is more one of proper, careful assembly than which brand is used. It is very important to make sure that the O-ring remains in the proper position during assembly (which is harder than it seems) and that the clamp is tightened sufficiently, but not over-tightened. If you over-tighten it, the plastic will kink and you will never get a good seal again. PBR Rubber Grease RG17 is strongly recommended as an assembly lube. Assembly instructions (PDF) here. If you're paranoid about leaks, you could carefully sand the mating areas of the reservoir / body with ultrafine sandpaper to remove any burrs / molding residue.

[quote]Well, the part in question is inside the car.  /quote]
When I've had spills (normally due to the pressure bleeder cap not sealing properly), I mop the excess fluid out of the tub and then squirt it with Dawn dishwashing detergent and flush with water, repeating 3 times. The water will drain out of the drain holes in the tub (you may have to pick small pebbles out of the drain holes).

[quote="Terry Kennedy"]
When I've had spills (normally due to the pressure bleeder cap not sealing properly), I mop the excess fluid out of the tub and then squirt it with Dawn dishwashing detergent and flush with water, repeating 3 times. The water will drain out of the drain holes in the tub (you may have to pick small pebbles out of the drain holes).
[/quote]

AWESOME, exactly what I needed Terry.  (As always!) 

Can someone please let me know where to bleed the clutch slave cylinder.
A pic would be nice.
Is it just a matter of tracing the clutch line down and back, from the clutch master cylinder?
With the Tilton reservoir, how much brake fluid is needed, will 1 liter do it?

[quote="SloanZurnToto"]
Can someone please let me know where to bleed the clutch slave cylinder.
A pic would be nice.
Is it just a matter of tracing the clutch line down and back, from the clutch master cylinder?
With the Tilton reservoir, how much brake fluid is needed, will 1 liter do it?
[/quote]

Honda K20_ or GM Ecotec?

[quote="SloanZurnToto"]
Can someone please let me know where to bleed the clutch slave cylinder.[/quote]

This is from memory, but should be right...

If this is on the Ecotec, it is on the transmission housing between the engine and the firewall on the driver's side. The braided clutch line goes into a little hockey-puck-shaped (but smaller) object on the outside of the transmission. The bleeder screw is also on the puck. Don't get too agressive with opening or closing the bleeder screw - the puck can often be a bit wobbly and you don't want to loosen / damage the hard line inside the transmission that it is connected to. If you do, you'll need to pull the engine (and then the transmission) - extremely unpleasant to do just for this.