wheel allignment specs

[atomizer]

Iam going in for an allignment for the atomizer and Im wondering where would I find the true spec sheet for the brammo atoms, if there is really a diffrence. Does anyone have one they may email me. Thanks!

[Terry Kennedy]

[quote="Atomizer"]
Iam going in for an allignment for the atomizer and Im wondering where would I find the true spec sheet for the brammo atoms, if there is really a diffrence. Does anyone have one they may email me. Thanks!
[/quote]

I'm attaching 2 PDF files. One is the alignment spec from the last Brammo manual (09-25-2007) and the other is the spec that Hallett recommended during the first AtomFest. I'm using the Hallett one.

[Heywood-Yablowme]

Castor?

It really depends on what you intend to do with the car and the construction of your tires. There really is no "true" spec. 

With my FA tires I run 1/16 toe in front /rear,2.5 degrees neg camber out back and 1.8 degrees neg in front.  I am sure the factory stock settings would be ducky for street use.

[atomizer]

Iam running the Yoko A048s. Street use. Thanks!

[dp35]

[quote="Terry Kennedy"]
[quote="Atomizer"]
Iam going in for an allignment for the atomizer and Im wondering where would I find the true spec sheet for the brammo atoms, if there is really a diffrence. Does anyone have one they may email me. Thanks!
[/quote]

I'm attaching 2 PDF files. One is the alignment spec from the last Brammo manual (09-25-2007) and the other is the spec that Hallett recommended during the first AtomFest. I'm using the Hallett one.
[/quote]

Terry, that must be a typo in the Ariel User's Manual, where it says 1.5mm toe OUT in the rear.  It should be toe'd IN at the rear.  Rear toe out will lead to disaster, unless you're entering a drifting competition.

[DarthChicken]

Actually, when I got my car from Brammo, the rear had toe OUT.  There's a reason people thing the Atom is a handful.. it is from the factory 

[Heywood-Yablowme]

^Agreed! My car was almost scary set up to "factory" specs. Fine up to about 80mph...but after that is was not fun.

I would do 1 to 1.5 degrees camber all around,with  1/16" toe IN front and rear,for street driving.

[Hellooo Newman]

[quote="MadMaxAtom and company"]
^Agreed! My car was almost scary set up to "factory" specs. Fine up to about 80mph...but after that is was not fun.

I would do 1 to 1.5 degrees camber all around,with  1/16" toe IN front and rear,for street driving.
[/quote]
Funny, I always thought the general rule was toe out for the front tires, and toe in for the Rear tires.
Doesn't toe out in the front provide quicker turn in?

[dp35]

[quote="Hellooo Newman"]
[quote="MadMaxAtom and company"]
^Agreed! My car was almost scary set up to "factory" specs. Fine up to about 80mph...but after that is was not fun.

I would do 1 to 1.5 degrees camber all around,with  1/16" toe IN front and rear,for street driving.
[/quote]
Funny, I always thought the general rule was toe out for the front tires, and toe in for the Rear tires.
Doesn't toe out in the front provide quicker turn in?
[/quote]

Correct.  Most people toe out the front and in the rear, myself included.

[Heywood-Yablowme]

I guesss it's all what you get used to. I hate toe out as it makes my car feel darty and nervous. I can't sense any difference in turn in between the two,so I choose the more stable feel of toe in.  That is why most cars are set up with toe in,including everything from the factories that are street driven. Must be something to it...

[dp35]

[quote="MadMaxAtom and company"]
I guesss it's all what you get used to. I hate toe out as it makes my car feel darty and nervous. I can't sense any difference in turn in between the two,so I choose the more stable feel of toe in.  That is why most cars are set up with toe in,including everything from the factories that are street driven. Must be something to it...
[/quote]

Could be.  I wouldn't mind trying that sometime.  If only I had more time....

[993rs]

[quote="MadMaxAtom and company"]
^Agreed! My car was almost scary set up to "factory" specs. Fine up to about 80mph...but after that is was not fun.

I would do 1 to 1.5 degrees camber all around,with  1/16" toe IN front and rear,for street driving.
[/quote]

I would say that my Atom 3 also gets a bit interesting above 80 or so, moving around a bit more than I like wih any sort of road irregularity.  Strong acceleration makes the rear end even more nervous.  I have been thinking of getting the alignment cheked, but have been wondering about the specs to use.  Any thoughts on whether an Atom 3 would use any different specs than a Brammo Atom?

[Terry Kennedy]

[quote="dp35"]
Terry, that must be a typo in the Ariel User's Manual, where it says 1.5mm toe OUT in the rear.  It should be toe'd IN at the rear.  Rear toe out will lead to disaster, unless you're entering a drifting competition.
[/quote]

That info has been consistent, all the way back to the first draft of the manual that I got in June 2006. The table has been re-arranged a couple times, so several people at Brammo must have looked at it while editing.

[Terry Kennedy]

[quote="993rs"]
I have been thinking of getting the alignment cheked, but have been wondering about the specs to use.  Any thoughts on whether an Atom 3 would use any different specs than a Brammo Atom?
[/quote]

It is pretty likely that it is different. You should be able to get a good answer directly from the factory, along with any suggestions to change it to make it more suited to your individual wishes.

I'm not sure whether you're referring to tramlining or hopping around when you mention road irregularities. We have some highways here that have noticable ruts from trucks driving on them, displacing the paving material. The Atom can be a bit to handle on roads like that, until you find a spot that's out of both ruts. I haven't had any issues with the car hopping around on bumps / potholes.

[McFred]

My atom arrived with toe out in the rear.  It would spin easily.  Changing the tires and doing an alignment really changed the car, but I'm not sure how much was alignment and how much was tire.  The rear was also riding the bump stops on the dampers.  Increasing the preload so the damper was near the middle of travel really helped the handling on washboard surface.