The Bastard's Build

[Curves Junkie]

[mention]cvjoint[/mention]
Yes, I have installed an extra oil cooler that the Factory installed for me in 2016.
But it's probably installed incorrectly - it's not in the airstream, but across it.
In the meantime, I built an air duct for the airflow, but it's obviously not very efficient - but much better than before.

Yes, the standard Honda engine cools or warms up the engine oil at the oil filter as well. That means it works against each other.
The missing SC Cooler also bring the temperatures up.

I am worried that the components, especially the bearings and bearings shells, will be damaged by the heat. I have to change a lot of things in this winter.

Your SC cooler - at the top of the former airbox - is this dimming completely sufficient to keep the air cool?
I know you have air-to-air for your rotrex.
I need air-water-cooler for my JRSC. Maybe in front of the water radiator at the nose - but at the moment no plan how big must the SC radiator must be.

[autobackup]

Curves J

I venture to suggest that you might consider upgrading your existing radiator and fan to the larger Atom V8 radiator and bigger fan - I regularly run my 3.5R in temperatures up to 40°C in Cyprus and have no overheating issues!

[cvjoint]

Your SC cooler - at the top of the former airbox - is this dimming completely sufficient to keep the air cool?

Good question. I have been trying to install an AEM Infinity with a wide range of sensors, including the IAT2 that would tell me post HE charge temps. So far no success, but AEM is still in progress, and should be going in sometime by the end of the year. When I do so I'll be able to see if the TTS HE is sufficient. I suppose you could also say that it is sufficient for 400whp, since I ran it like that 2 seasons now and it hasn't been an issue. Most of our track days in the summer are 40*C here in Cali, so if my engine survived that any of them should. My average speed is close to 90 mph on track though, and that's the only application for my car. I don't know how well it would do on the street with an air to air HE and low airflow.

I agree with autobackup, the sidepods are the way to go. It easily doubles the cooling capacity. You could also try an electric waterpump. Mine has helped a lot, and if water stays cooler so will oil as it passes through a cooler block.

[cvjoint]

Set a hot lap (32*C) at Buttownwillow Raceway CW layout 13, 1:47.76 with 22psi of boost.

Only my third time on this track. Tires pretty clapped out at 10 heatcycles.



Looks like I was able to tie with the Viper ACR factory effort:
https://www.detroitnews.com/story/busin ... /76476364/

[cvjoint]

Set a new pb at Laguna Seca, 1:30.69 <-- faster than McLaren P1 test by Motor Trend!

Now in Go Pro 4k 120fps, though YouTube condenses it down to 60fps, womp



I got chased down by none other than Turn in Track Out though I didn't know at the time since he was driving a customer car. He's the quickest guy on LS, setting all the benchmark times in super/hyper cars for clients. This time he was driving an unrestricted McLaren GT4. He was a good sport and provided the video so I can make a split screen! This is the whole chase during that session and includes the fast lap:

[Curves Junkie]

[cvjoint]

Set a new PB of 1:39.6 at Sonoma (aka Infineon, aka Sears Point). This is the clockwise (standard) Long Circuit (2.52 mile), a bit more demanding than the moto and chute NASCAR layouts. For reference, a modern Mercedes F1 car did 1:18 here and late 70s/early 80s F1 cars did 1:31s. Also about midpack compared to qualifying times this year in Trans Am TA class which includes things like Gallardo GT3 and 850hp+ cars.

[Curves Junkie]

WOW, great blast.

Your speedo is too slow. It can not follow your real driven speed. You need a faster GPS-Mouse.

[cvjoint]

WOW, great blast.

Your speedo is too slow. It can not follow your real driven speed. You need a faster GPS-Mouse.

Yeah, but even if I take the time to sync it manually it will be off because it's unreliable. I even mounted the 10hz receiver to the chassis, it just has way too much variance. So either the professional GPS receivers are more accurate with the same refresh rate or the software smoothing they have is better. Either way, I need a more accurate GPS first. No excuse for being 3 tenths off the official time either since the lap start/stop is on the straight and I'm doing over 125mph at that point.

[Curves Junkie]

I talk about the speedo in the upper right corner at the video.

Maybe the 10hz receiver is placed at the wrong place and the receiver get too much wrong electrical signals from e.g. the engine.

[cvjoint]

I talk about the speedo in the upper right corner at the video.

Maybe the 10hz receiver is placed at the wrong place and the receiver get too much wrong electrical signals from e.g. the engine.

I tried under the plastic dash tray and on the chassis just ahead of the shifter. Same (crap) performance from the DUAL XGPS 160 (SKY PRO). And unless I'm totally losing it, it actually gets worse as the unit ages. I'm on the second one.

[Curves Junkie]

I talk about the speedo in the upper right corner at the video.

Maybe the 10hz receiver is placed at the wrong place and the receiver get too much wrong electrical signals from e.g. the engine.

I tried under the plastic dash tray and on the chassis just ahead of the shifter. Same (crap) performance from the DUAL XGPS 160 (SKY PRO). And unless I'm totally losing it, it actually gets worse as the unit ages. I'm on the second one.

The Dual XGPS 160 send the data stream by BT and as I wrote before maybe the engine send interference signals - sorry dont know the correct english words. I use a intercom and here I hear always interfering noise at my headset.
Perhaps it is better to use a gps device that records the gps data itself, e.g. on an sd card or intern memory.

[anx10us]

I talk about the speedo in the upper right corner at the video.

Maybe the 10hz receiver is placed at the wrong place and the receiver get too much wrong electrical signals from e.g. the engine.

I tried under the plastic dash tray and on the chassis just ahead of the shifter. Same (crap) performance from the DUAL XGPS 160 (SKY PRO). And unless I'm totally losing it, it actually gets worse as the unit ages. I'm on the second one.

Ive also had problems with DUAL XGPS 150, similar issue with lagging data recorded and large gaps per lap, it never seems to work reliably, have tried placing around the car, very annoying. I have however had great success with racebox mini, 25Hz, gets GPS signal very quickly and seems 100x more reliable ..

[cvjoint]

I talk about the speedo in the upper right corner at the video.

Maybe the 10hz receiver is placed at the wrong place and the receiver get too much wrong electrical signals from e.g. the engine.

I have the Hondata logging OBDII, it's wired in and mounted next to the GPS receiver. But I would think the interference is minimal since it is wired.

Ive also had problems with DUAL XGPS 150, similar issue with lagging data recorded and large gaps per lap, it never seems to work reliably, have tried placing around the car, very annoying. I have however had great success with racebox mini, 25Hz, gets GPS signal very quickly and seems 100x more reliable ..

I was looking at that as well. What I really need AIM with the logger or some sort of dash and logger combo, because I would love to log some custom sensors as well, like IAT and IAT2s to see how well the intercooler works.

[anx10us]

So you could use an ODB ECU logger, and then connect that and racebox mini to Harry’s lap timer or race chrono pro ?

The racebox app is great but it’s just lap analysis, doesn’t collect any external data

Clearly you’d also have the challenge of working out the formulas for the correct ECU feeds.

I’d really like to be able to log throttle/brake ?/gears/coolant temps/oli temps etc.