Atom 4 - Build and Collection

[Steve Gibson]

I can see the value in setting 1 for when it's hosing it down. Despite being easy with your right foot, an Atom can be a handful in torrential rain and standing water. A few of us have been through that experience overseas. Or maybe you want to let your grown-up son or daughter drive, on track, without overwhelming their abilities.

[Anon]

Thanks for the clarification. Could do with updating my Atom 4 spec video with this tidbits.

I'll be sticking with the default position '2' then with 350bhp. I don't think I would want it any more aggressive. I can imagine that would be much harder to drive, especially on corner exit. As for turning the power down - where's the fun in that lol

[CliveJ]

For what it's worth I specced boost controller for 2 main reasons, thinking it worked as per the test cars differing bhps:

1. I'm happy to let trusted friends have a go in it, but would turn the boost to 1 & traction to max

2. I figured the 3 different bhps gave you 3 different specs in regards to setting lap times ie maybe you master setting 1 on track, then move to setting 2 then setting 3.

[markwetherall]

I have the boost control and I use it all the time. Having 3 different maps means I effectively have 3 different cars to play with. I tend to use option 1 for when my kids are driving on track or it is raining, I tend to use level 2 most of the time on the road for fast driving which is way quick enough for just about everything, then I use setting 3 on track and for when I am really on it. The amount of noise changes as well so on a long journey I tend to turn it down to 1 or 2. For me driving with setting 2 most of the time means when I go to level 3 it feels much more fun again. My opinion is to have it. I am looking at ordering another 4 at the moment with sequential and I would certainly have both electronics added

[Peter255]

Thanks for clearing it up Henry.

So now we have clarity and confirmation of the current updated function (post the now misleading reviews) whats the consensus?

We have "nanny mode" and 2 different max power maps (aggressive and smooth). Essential or not?

It will be interesting to see them on the rollers to see what the mid range difference is between lvl 2 and lvl 3.

I still think i'd probably leave it on 3 if its dry, but then again how aggressive can 3 be?

[speedmachine]

But is the non boost controlled 350 like map 2 or 3? I still have no clue

[Luckky]

But is the non boost controlled 350 like map 2 or 3? I still have no clue

Number 2 my friend.... only special people have map 3


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[John Scherrer]

I doubt you'll see any difference on the dyno mid-range between settings 2 and 3 - these are measured with the throttle fully open from the get go ..

[Peter255]

I doubt you'll see any difference on the dyno mid-range between settings 2 and 3 - these are measured with the throttle fully open from the get go ..

I would expect some difference. For the aggressive map (lvl 3) if the boost builds faster it should have the power coming in harder and quicker. Conversely the smoother map (lvl 2) should have a less aggressive profile (more linear). But we shall see...

[Anon]

Oh yes I think you would definitely see this on the dyno if the maps are different which they are because Ariel confirmed this. I honestly would not want the boost to come in any more aggressively than it does on "position 2", but will see when I get the car on track. Henry did mention one of their test drivers preferred position 2 - to me it's perfect so far.

[Monza]

Of course the dyno shows the difference in mid range torque between map 2 and 3 (i'm speaking of the 350hp option here) which correspond to what we feel on road or track. I confirm the top end power are same for both map.
And i'm not surprised that the best time on track will be made on map 2, on dry. On map 3 it'll be necessary to use the traction control to reach the best laps because the torque is coming to hard when applying the throttle back on/after apex.
For road use , so in every conditions including some cold roads or wet roads , i fully understand why Ariel use the map 2.
Now that the situation is clear , perhaps i can imagine that with a new order you can spec directly map 3 (with no 3 position boost control) but in this case you have to know the consequence of "brutal" torque when driving it.

[anx10us]

Morning, getting close to finalising specification and would appreciate feedback ..

I'm keen to keep budget to £50k (this is just over), anything obvious I've missed ? or should swap ?car will be 50/50 split between road and track ..

I probably need to ask the factory, but i'm not clear on exactly what the difference in colour is between Silver / Gunmetal and Titanium ...

Atom 4 320bhp 6 Speed
Limited Slip Differential
Baffled Engine Oil Sump
AP Racing 4 Pot Caliper/290mm Discs (inc handbrake) Front and Rear
Black Brake and Clutch Lines with Stainless Steel Fittings
Bilstein Single Adjustable Dampers with 2 piece springs - Road/Track
Towing Eye Kit Rear Road/Track Day Use (1 x hook)
Standard 2" Harnesses
Road Wheel and Tyre Package
Stainless Steel Fixings
Machined Aluminium Wing Mirror Set
Aero Screen
Locking Fuel Cap
Black Colour Wheels
Silver/Gunmetal/Gloss Black/Titanium Powder Coat Chassis
IVA Test
Road Tax + Registration

[phil4]

silver is as you'd imagine silver, like the frame on the older Atom on the wikipedia page here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ariel_Atom

Gunmetal, darker silver metallic - like the attached.

IMG_3768.jpg (2.48 MiB) Viewed 509 times

Titanium is a light grey - non metallic a bit like the audi here:

[phil4]

Also, if you're thinking of keeping it, I think you need a handbrake for when MOT time comes around. Other than that, seems to cover the basics and not overly "strong" in any one area, quite well rounded.

[Steve Gibson]

Handbrake is now standard fit, Phil. ;o)

I would change the harnesses for 3 inchers. They are more comfortable when under heavy pressure on track.