I'm not professing to know what I'm doing here, but after a day of faffing with the suspension, I thought I'd share what I learned in case someone else finds it useful. Keep in mind, I could be -very- wrong.
Page 37 of the manual contains settings for road, off road (with and without jumps). It says number of clicks from full hard/clockwise.
For low speed and high speed compression this is easy. looking at the nut (or allen key receptacle), turn it fully clockwise until you can't (don't turn it too hard), and then slowly turn back anti-clockwise counting the clicks until you get to the number in the manual (you're making it softer with each click).
With the black dial, it's a bit more fun. I've assumed the rear's are the right way up, and true clockwise is clockwise looking down on the rear dial (doesn't matter which side from), so turn that as far as it'll go... it stops clicking and free turns at the end... then turn more slowly anti-clockwise again counting the clicks.
- Rear
- IMG_2680.jpg (399.58 KiB) Viewed 4612 times
The fronts are upside down, so this time as you look down on it', turn it first anti-clockwise until it free turns, and then turn it clockwise counting the clicks. This picture shows which way to turn to achieve Clockwise as the manual asks.
- Front
- IMG_2682.jpg (312.73 KiB) Viewed 4612 times
The final thing that I needed to learn was how to get at the compression parts. On the front they're easy, they're under the big rubber cap. At the rear they're the same but covered by the rear arch bodywork. There's a hole cut in it so you can see through, but it doesn't appear to be centered so you can adjust. I was using a 12mm deep socket (about 5cm deep), as there was no obvious way to get a spanner in, but though this should work, the hole wasn't lined up and the socket wouldn't go it.
The secret I found was to jack the rear up, so the wheel you're working on is just touching/just off the ground. With the sump guard on I was jacking from the forward wishbone mount point
Now the hole lines up enough that both the allen key and socket can be inserted and turn.
What else have I found? The factory setup for the road on the road was about bob on, I've since tried a few things, but it's now on the softest of the road settings (ie. rears are at 25 clicks). That the harder offroad setting makes it very wollowy, so much so I think I'd get sea sick
It didn't seem to filter out big bumps at high speed though, but did a good job on slower bumps. It felt less cohesive at speed on the road.
I'm not professing to know what I'm doing here, but after a day of faffing with the suspension, I thought I'd share what I learned in case someone else finds it useful. Keep in mind, I could be -very- wrong.
Page 37 of the manual contains settings for road, off road (with and without jumps). It says number of clicks from full hard/clockwise.
For low speed and high speed compression this is easy. looking at the nut (or allen key receptacle), turn it fully clockwise until you can't (don't turn it too hard), and then slowly turn back anti-clockwise counting the clicks until you get to the number in the manual (you're making it softer with each click).
With the black dial, it's a bit more fun. I've assumed the rear's are the right way up, and true clockwise is clockwise looking down on the rear dial (doesn't matter which side from), so turn that as far as it'll go... it stops clicking and free turns at the end... then turn more slowly anti-clockwise again counting the clicks.
[attachment=1]IMG_2680.jpg[/attachment]
The fronts are upside down, so this time as you look down on it', turn it first anti-clockwise until it free turns, and then turn it clockwise counting the clicks. This picture shows which way to turn to achieve Clockwise as the manual asks.
[attachment=0]IMG_2682.jpg[/attachment]
The final thing that I needed to learn was how to get at the compression parts. On the front they're easy, they're under the big rubber cap. At the rear they're the same but covered by the rear arch bodywork. There's a hole cut in it so you can see through, but it doesn't appear to be centered so you can adjust. I was using a 12mm deep socket (about 5cm deep), as there was no obvious way to get a spanner in, but though this should work, the hole wasn't lined up and the socket wouldn't go it.
The secret I found was to jack the rear up, so the wheel you're working on is just touching/just off the ground. With the sump guard on I was jacking from the forward wishbone mount point :H: Now the hole lines up enough that both the allen key and socket can be inserted and turn.
What else have I found? The factory setup for the road on the road was about bob on, I've since tried a few things, but it's now on the softest of the road settings (ie. rears are at 25 clicks). That the harder offroad setting makes it very wollowy, so much so I think I'd get sea sick :) It didn't seem to filter out big bumps at high speed though, but did a good job on slower bumps. It felt less cohesive at speed on the road.