Ariel.Club Forum

unfortunately even my core is too wide, it's 23.5 inches wide, mad's core is 20 inches wide.

they listed mine core width as the exterior width and they listed my core as 21 inches, but that's not correct.

so basically I'll have to resell mine and start from scratch, which is really really not what I wanted to do here, My goal was quick cheap and easy.  I got none of the above.

mine will still be 2.5 inches thick, it will be narrow enough to fit down lower in the frame yet still taller versus wider and shorter so it fits in the same width as the factory but can stand straight up, and it will have plenty of room in front and behind it for the air to move around and I can attach the factory fan to it so it will push the air through.

what can you do, this is custom, I was trying to cheat and go easy but it's just not going to work, the cost will be similar to the kart radiator but 3.5 times thicker and 3 inches wider and have a fan, but won't have as much direct wind.

does cubic volume matter? I did a quick comparison

shifter kart rad is 60 inches cubed (from memory I could be off a little)
madmaxes is 210 cubic inches
the one I bought and can't use is 404 cubic inches
the one I'm making is 200 cubic inches.

Just have your exising one cut down and a new end tank welded on.  Very simple that way.

the one I purchased is different then mad's as his is not available online right now, so the one I purchased was supposed to be .25 narrower than his and it's 2.75 wider or more, so it really hits the frame rails then the tubes stick out into the suspension.

So I'm going to have one made.

[quote="silver"]
Mine won't work at all, it was 3 inches wider than the description said, so we're going to make one that's 10X8X2.5 core so it fits deeper down than if I used a more rectangular one, it's going to be more expensive but it will fit MUCH more within the frame rails and fit up to the factory fan as well, plus mount into the factory mounting tabs.
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Are you saying that you ordered the same part as Max and it wasn't the advertised size?    Now you are hiring someone to make a heat exchanger?

Mine won't work at all, it was 3 inches wider than the description said, so we're going to make one that's 10X8X2.5 core so it fits deeper down than if I used a more rectangular one, it's going to be more expensive but it will fit MUCH more within the frame rails and fit up to the factory fan as well, plus mount into the factory mounting tabs.

I don't think the Ecotecs suffer from oil problems like some track cars, as they carry 6qts on board and the oil is not spread out and allowed to slosh much.It seems to be deeper and contained in the sump more than most. I track with some very wide sticky tires and have seen NO oiling issues. Yes,I did add the Masterlube this winter,but it was so simple I could not dismiss the insurance factor of having 2qts. of pressurized oil ready to enter the system in case of a low pressure problem.

The Shinoo tune/Harrop setup etc is quality stuff

I pulled the trigger on the Shinoo tune yesterday.  I will have to wait to get it all in, and installed.  I was unsure about the accusump or the cost.

Its finally up to 45 degrees here, I had forgotten what the sun looked like

I am convinced the main reason brammo saw zero benefit to the larger aftercooler was because they had the entire cooling system running backwards,with NO way for air to be bled off. I would be willing to bet there will be a good gain on cooling abilities IF the coolant pump is reconfigured to PUSH coolant foreward,and through the upgraded heat exchanger and then back to the motor.(option B as per GM) I was not willing to part with $600 (TMI) for the better radiator and went my own way.Time will tell if it works or not.

The benefits of an Accusump/Masterlube system for a track car are too good to not install one. TMI still has the brackets,Masterlube sells the 3qt. kit and the car is already wired for installation. Very inexpensive insurance against oil starvation.

1: the larger intercooler was an upgrade costing about $800 or so, it provided 0 positive results during Brammo's testing of it while we were working on the "300 solution."  the reason it's useless is it's still mounted horizontally and radiators need to be mounted vertically so they get wind blowing through them, same reason why the water temps go up when you're sitting at a red light. Also, this doesn't solve the problem with the factory pump so easily loosing it's ability to pump due to an air bubble.

2:  the oil accumulator.....do you neeeeeeed it? doubt it but it's function is of use, so do you want it .....why not

I was at TMI yesterday getting alignment and a few other bits and learned a wealth of info about my car and the early twos.

Brammo made a replacement aftercooler about 14/14/2 inches that I saw on there track 245's.  Its not the oild cooler like on mine.

Did we know they had this one? has it been tried on the 300? does it make a difference?

I dont know a price. they are working on it for me.



Second thing. ecotec does it need an oil scavenge acculator?  I may also need one of these.



Whats that sound? its the sound of money bleeding from my atom account!

[quote="Gage"]
I wish there was some practical way to get before and after comparisons with that aftercooler vs. the new one.    The visual difference is huge.
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my intercooler should be installed within the next week or two so I will be able to test before and after temps

[quote="Positron"]
I think I'm the only one doing it dry.. not a fan of the spray.. tuning and 100 octane is my poison.

If I run out of 100 octane it stops in one piece, if you run out of windshield wiper fluid.. you spill 6 qts of oil with big chunks of aluminum on the track in a narrow band until you stop..

I can tell you, with data, that if the oil rad fan is blowing down it will ADD calories to the water from the front rad.
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Run two maps and have a pressure switch and level switch on the meth system turn the meth map off if you run low or if you lose meth pressure.  Whatever you do windshield wiper fluid is at best 30% meth, get real meth and run 75% meth or more, octane more than cooling.  I am currently mapped for a 50/50 mix and will be going for a 75% mix when I re-dyno.

I wish there was some practical way to get before and after comparisons with that aftercooler vs. the new one.    The visual difference is huge.

I live in the frozen land of New England,so results will have to wait till I can get the car out and drive it.(April??)  I just got my new ECM tune and will load it today.The aftercooler system filled easily and circulates fine.

Max,

any update or results from the new aftercooler?