Ariel.Club Forum

Thanks Ecotecracer.I was aware of the "vats" problem with Fords,but not on the GM vehicles.Hopefully it will be easy to remove the vats restriction on the replacement pcm.

[quote="MadMaxedAtom"]
I am going to buy a used GM one out of a junkyard for a 2006 Cobalt SS supercharged.They can be purchased for around $75 bucks (car-part.com).There is even a few on Ebay at times for about the same price.Make sure it is out of a Cobalt SS supercharged standard shift as other GM lines share the same pcm part number and I figure if it is loaded with the base S/C'd program you will only need to tweak the existing maps.

Bill says the pcm part# supported is 12597520. (and out of an 05-07 Cobalt SS S/C'd stick should have a useable program loaded, is my theory...)

I don't know anything about intense racings custom ecu's.Possibly a factory one with a preloaded tune?I dunno...be careful.

IF this works,the place I am getting the twin screw through has a program tune file they have developed (on a dyno) for the twin screw that will load through the HPtuner software... and then they or I can tweak it    :tu: 


I'm not going for crazy HP numbers; I just want the 300hp I dreamed about from day one....and dependability!

[/quote]

[color=blue][color=red]you should be able to connect to the cobalt pcm with hp tuners you will have to turn off VATS in order to run  the way gm's electronics work is that you have a PCM that controls the Engine and a Body Control Module that handles the speedo radio power light Etc Etc. now when you first turn over the key on a gm there is a magnet on the ignition that activates a hall effect curcit that signal is turned into a specific resistance value which both the pcm and the bcm have learned. if the pcm does not recive the correct resistance with in 3 sec of turing the key the pcm will turn off the injectors. now seeing as this is not a gm per say i dont think there is an actual bcm in the atom therefore the vats must be turned off in your special pcm. Hope this helps[/color].[/color]

I meant to say it feels the same as it did with a passenger before.....I know it's way faster without....just had to get back to work before I go out again.


Back from the 2nd trip.  70 miles total, there was no sign of the hiccupping it would sometimes get before...however it was random when it would occur before so it I'm not convinced it is 100% gone yet.  Drove it by myself and with a passenger....I'm going to have to say 3rd gear feels like it pulled harder right to redline...BUT, I haven't driven it for a while so at least it doesn't feel slower.

dump that passenger, dead weight

[quote="bolus"]
woo!!  That injector will be fine if rotated a little since the O ring will seal no matter what direction it is facing.  the only slight problem is the retaining clip may not be locked into place.  But the fuel rail is bolted down and will keep it from moving. 
[/quote]

Exactly....ok so I've driven 11 miles..with a passenger...it feels 100% the same as before...actually that's fine with me.  maybe in the future new exhaust and water injection but for now, enjoyment.

woo!!  That injector will be fine if rotated a little since the O ring will seal no matter what direction it is facing.  the only slight problem is the retaining clip may not be locked into place.  But the fuel rail is bolted down and will keep it from moving. 

Last few notes.....

1:  put the belt on from the top to the bottom, 2nd to last put it over teh crank shaft, and lastly fit it over the tensioner pulley....THIS IS WAY EASIER THAN TRYING TO GET IT OVER THE SUPERCHARGER PULLEY LAST.
2:  put the ECU back in before the air intake, it's just easier to get the 4 bolts in that way. and you can prime the fuel injectors to check for leaks before you start.

LASTLY. she started without a wimper...perfectly, so far no leaks although I'm going to keep my eye on it, since that 2nd injector is facing slightly the wrong direction I'm concerned.  NO SMOKE EITHER, THAT'S INTERSTING. so I definitley figured there would be a cloud of smoke, maybe with the new leaner tuning there will be less smoke...anyways I'm off to button it up and test drive woohoo...it's been a month almost since I took her apart.

As soon as he gets back from the ER he'll let you know  :pop:

sweet, you are ready to swap engines and repair your own transmissions now  ;D

So does it start?  any explosions?

I got it and it was with a normal socket on the end....and an open wrench in the middle....at first I was trying to get it done by using the wrench in the middle, but that should be used just to get it tight, then hold the middle nut and crank on the outer one...that's the info I was needing but I figured it out on my own...now I'll pass it along to the next sucker...I mean car enthusiast.

that installer looks like it works differently, where you can get an air ratchet on the nut that is designed to put force back on the pulley...the one I have looks like you have to turn that nut by hand while holding the outter nut with a wrench, because it's not a nut on the end but more like a bolt if you know what I mean.

check that link I posted,  it has the directions.  though they aren't exactly clear

does your puller act as an installer too?  if so does it at least have directions.  I think I had more detailed instructions I might be able to use the installer I have.

want to borrow my puller?  you could mail it back with the pulley
http://www.intense-racing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=LSJ-IPT-100&Category_Code=LSJ_Pulleys&Product_Count=2

as far as I can tell.......it's probably easier to completely custom fabricate a water injection system than get this damn pulley back on :doh:

This sucks.